I\'ve heard that there is a screw which can fall out of the rocker gear assembly on these six pot engines - what is it for and should I be worried about it? My rocker gear is a little noisy but I\'ve put this down to 37 years and 72000 miles of use - maybe I should whip the cover off and have a look this weekend?
Rocker gear
Sorbs,
there is a screw, with a lock nut, on the end of the rocker that bears on the push rod - you use it to adjust the distance between the other end and the valve tip. If that nut gets loose, it would be possible for the screw to unscrew and fall into the depths of the engine. But I fear that description will mean little to you, until you get that rocker cover off.
sorbs, I\'m not being nasty, but if you want to look after this engine yourself, you have to become familiar with this sort of detail. Please, buy yourself a workshop manual, the best investment you will ever make in this field, after buying the car (a dodgy investment at best) and your tool kit. The Haynes is fine, the occasional mistake and \"reassembly is the reverse of the above process\" notwithstanding. Take it out and start fiddling with the engine - your learning curve will be like a rocket.
The 2000/2500 engine is basicly the same as the Vitesse/GT6 engine and the TR6 engine, and shares lots of features with the Herald/Spitfire four cylinder. So don\'t confine yourself to this little travelled site. Try the TSSC (you have to be a member to post, but can read for free) the Club Triumph site, or even the Totally Triumph Net, which is American and all the better for that.
Welcome to the asylum!
John
there is a screw, with a lock nut, on the end of the rocker that bears on the push rod - you use it to adjust the distance between the other end and the valve tip. If that nut gets loose, it would be possible for the screw to unscrew and fall into the depths of the engine. But I fear that description will mean little to you, until you get that rocker cover off.
sorbs, I\'m not being nasty, but if you want to look after this engine yourself, you have to become familiar with this sort of detail. Please, buy yourself a workshop manual, the best investment you will ever make in this field, after buying the car (a dodgy investment at best) and your tool kit. The Haynes is fine, the occasional mistake and \"reassembly is the reverse of the above process\" notwithstanding. Take it out and start fiddling with the engine - your learning curve will be like a rocket.
The 2000/2500 engine is basicly the same as the Vitesse/GT6 engine and the TR6 engine, and shares lots of features with the Herald/Spitfire four cylinder. So don\'t confine yourself to this little travelled site. Try the TSSC (you have to be a member to post, but can read for free) the Club Triumph site, or even the Totally Triumph Net, which is American and all the better for that.
Welcome to the asylum!
John
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David Withers
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Sorbs, that\'s good advice from John but I think the screw that you have heard about is a big Phillips headed screw that goes into number 4 rocker shaft pedestal with its leading end sticking through into the rocker shaft so as to locate the shaft.
If that screw comes loose, it can make its way down into the sump, and the rocker shaft can move. Possibly also some oil pressure will be lost because of oil escaping through the hole. However I haven\'t had a screw come loose (well, not that one anyway) in 40-odd years of owning Triumphs.
Noise from the rocker area is much more like to be worn rocker levers or rocker lever bushes, but that\'s nothing to worry about other than the noise. Or it may be just that the valve clearances (\'tappets\') need adjusting - especially if you don\'t know when they were last done. It\'s quite a straightforward job, preferably with a manual or advice from someone who has done it before.
As John says, taking off the rocker cover will make it all much clearer.
If that screw comes loose, it can make its way down into the sump, and the rocker shaft can move. Possibly also some oil pressure will be lost because of oil escaping through the hole. However I haven\'t had a screw come loose (well, not that one anyway) in 40-odd years of owning Triumphs.
Noise from the rocker area is much more like to be worn rocker levers or rocker lever bushes, but that\'s nothing to worry about other than the noise. Or it may be just that the valve clearances (\'tappets\') need adjusting - especially if you don\'t know when they were last done. It\'s quite a straightforward job, preferably with a manual or advice from someone who has done it before.
As John says, taking off the rocker cover will make it all much clearer.
Thanks - I think Dizzy has identified the screw in question. It\'s listed in the spare parts ads as \'the one that falls out\'!!! The workshop manuals don\'t identify it in this way! I was just keen to know where it was / should be! As I say, my car is slightly tappety, but no more so than any other 70000 mile OHV engined car I\'ve owned so I\'m not really too bothered. Need to change the heater hoses soon so when my tools and wallet are out anyway I\'ll change the rocker cover gasket and have a look inside at the same time - always handy to know of specific foibles when carrying out servicing work...
Hi sorbs,
I\'ve never had one of those screws fall out either, but if you take the rocker cover off you can check everything is OK, even just for piece of mind. Maybe a dab of threadlock for security ? And use the opportunity to check/set the tappets. If the car has not been converted to unleaded there may be a chance some of the gaps have closed up, not got bigger (or just hamfisted adjustment from the last owner !). Over time that will damage a valve and valve seat - not good !
One small challenge is getting the rocker gasket to stay in place properly when you put the cover back on. I give both rocker cover and head surcaces a thorough clean (usually use brake cleaner sprayed onto a rag) then a few small drops of superglue on the cover surface and some of my wifes clothes pegs (!!) to hold the gasket in place till it dries. Then carefully fit the cover. If you have an ally rocker cover this is even worse as there is generally no lip to hold the gasket in place !
Most common source of top end noise is the tappets, either out of adjustment or worn shaft or worn rocker face. Unless you want to spend out on replacements, set them the best you can and drive it !
Biff
I\'ve never had one of those screws fall out either, but if you take the rocker cover off you can check everything is OK, even just for piece of mind. Maybe a dab of threadlock for security ? And use the opportunity to check/set the tappets. If the car has not been converted to unleaded there may be a chance some of the gaps have closed up, not got bigger (or just hamfisted adjustment from the last owner !). Over time that will damage a valve and valve seat - not good !
One small challenge is getting the rocker gasket to stay in place properly when you put the cover back on. I give both rocker cover and head surcaces a thorough clean (usually use brake cleaner sprayed onto a rag) then a few small drops of superglue on the cover surface and some of my wifes clothes pegs (!!) to hold the gasket in place till it dries. Then carefully fit the cover. If you have an ally rocker cover this is even worse as there is generally no lip to hold the gasket in place !
Most common source of top end noise is the tappets, either out of adjustment or worn shaft or worn rocker face. Unless you want to spend out on replacements, set them the best you can and drive it !
Biff
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David Withers
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A couple of \'follow-ups\'...
Biffo\'s suggestion of a drop of threadlock is good. I\'d see if the screw will undo without huge effort. If so, threadlock it - If not, leave it alone. I\'ll do the same with mine when I have the cover off.
Like Biffo, I glue the cork gasket, but to the top of the cylinder head rather than the cover. That helps make a really oil-tight joint between gasket and block, where I think oil seepage is most likely. Secondly there\'s less chance of damage to the gasket when removing the cover. Thirdly, it helps stop oil dribbling from the low rear corner of the head down the back of the engine when the cover is taken off.
I use Loctite Flange Sealant as the glue because (a) I happen to have a cartridge of it and (b) it doesn\'t set hard and (c) unless the gasket has a really strong mind of its own, it will stay put without clothes pegs, etc.
Finally, I fit \'O\'-rings under the plain washers on the three cover studs to stop oil seepage. The result of all this is that the engine goes rusty \'cos there\'s no oil on it. I exaggerate of course, but the engine is beautifully clean and just needs a quick wipe with a cloth once in a while to keep it that way.
John, I don\'t have a clue about the engine block - sorry - and I\'m sure you offended no-one with your suggestions. That\'s what we\'re here for - to give and receive suggestions I mean... not to offend!
Biffo\'s suggestion of a drop of threadlock is good. I\'d see if the screw will undo without huge effort. If so, threadlock it - If not, leave it alone. I\'ll do the same with mine when I have the cover off.
Like Biffo, I glue the cork gasket, but to the top of the cylinder head rather than the cover. That helps make a really oil-tight joint between gasket and block, where I think oil seepage is most likely. Secondly there\'s less chance of damage to the gasket when removing the cover. Thirdly, it helps stop oil dribbling from the low rear corner of the head down the back of the engine when the cover is taken off.
I use Loctite Flange Sealant as the glue because (a) I happen to have a cartridge of it and (b) it doesn\'t set hard and (c) unless the gasket has a really strong mind of its own, it will stay put without clothes pegs, etc.
Finally, I fit \'O\'-rings under the plain washers on the three cover studs to stop oil seepage. The result of all this is that the engine goes rusty \'cos there\'s no oil on it. I exaggerate of course, but the engine is beautifully clean and just needs a quick wipe with a cloth once in a while to keep it that way.
John, I don\'t have a clue about the engine block - sorry - and I\'m sure you offended no-one with your suggestions. That\'s what we\'re here for - to give and receive suggestions I mean... not to offend!
Some years ago, I spent ages trying to adjust the clattering tappets on my old A series Metro, without really making an improvement. I\'m certain this was due to wear and tear. I took it to a garage in the end who adjusted it to be even noisier! My 2000 really isn\'t that bad and it doesn\'t seem like the screw issue is anything to really worry about either - just something I found on the website carsurvey.org. The rocker cover gasket doesn\'t leak (although I\'d planned to renew it if removing the cover) so I\'ll probably just leave well alone and keep driving until the next service interval rolls round. Will bear in mind the tips for locating the gasket though - such advice is so useful when carrying out a job on an unfamiliar engine!
Alan
Alan
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Mike Stevens
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Hi All,
Actually, I HAVE had the rocker screw come out! It happened to the 2500S estate the day after a trip home from holiday in Devon. The car started, making a horrible clatter so was rapidly switched off. On removal of the rocker cover fixings, the cover itself \'popped-up\' all on its own. The screw had indeed come out and was wedged on top of one of the rockers, between it and the cover, jamming that valve slightly open.
Needles to say, the screw was replaced PDQ complete with some loctite.
Cheers, Mike.
Actually, I HAVE had the rocker screw come out! It happened to the 2500S estate the day after a trip home from holiday in Devon. The car started, making a horrible clatter so was rapidly switched off. On removal of the rocker cover fixings, the cover itself \'popped-up\' all on its own. The screw had indeed come out and was wedged on top of one of the rockers, between it and the cover, jamming that valve slightly open.
Needles to say, the screw was replaced PDQ complete with some loctite.
Cheers, Mike.