So I’m prepping for my new bushes and mounts. It is indeed possible to get the swing arm off without removing the stub axle. Bit scary though supporting the rear of the car on just the sills (left the jack under the center of the subframe as well.
Needed some good solid bits of timber and a jack (and a rubber mallet) to free it all up. Spring came out so I can renew the seats. Bushes came out quite easily too with my windy press, no need for threaded bar.
They looked OK to be honest, but one a bit crazed. Not sure if these are the originals but at least it will be done.
Rear swing arms
-
simon.williams
- Senior Member

- Posts: 230
- Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2025 11:30 am
Re: Rear swing arms
Good job!
However, I think you made the job far more difficult by not removing the driveshaft and hub as one unit. It's a really easy job - drum off, remove the 6 hub flange nylocs, undo the tie / gaitor wire on the inner shaft, and remove the whole driveshaft as one! No need to remove the shoes / backplate. If the hub hasn't been out for years, you may have to use a small bar against the hub flange and upper brake shoe seat to start it moving, but it's that simple. When replacing the driveshaft, I use a small scraper just to allow the driveshaft flange to clear the lower pull off springs but that's it, remembering to just to 'nip' the nylocs up only very lightly.
But you got there!
However, I think you made the job far more difficult by not removing the driveshaft and hub as one unit. It's a really easy job - drum off, remove the 6 hub flange nylocs, undo the tie / gaitor wire on the inner shaft, and remove the whole driveshaft as one! No need to remove the shoes / backplate. If the hub hasn't been out for years, you may have to use a small bar against the hub flange and upper brake shoe seat to start it moving, but it's that simple. When replacing the driveshaft, I use a small scraper just to allow the driveshaft flange to clear the lower pull off springs but that's it, remembering to just to 'nip' the nylocs up only very lightly.
But you got there!
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
-
simon.williams
- Senior Member

- Posts: 230
- Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2025 11:30 am
Re: Rear swing arms
Effectively not that hard to take out the half shafts, thanks for the tip. Amazing how light the trailing arms are.
Now I can also grease where grease hasn’t been for years…I didn’t see any way to grease the wheel bearing bit. Not that it looks like it needs it.
Now I can also grease where grease hasn’t been for years…I didn’t see any way to grease the wheel bearing bit. Not that it looks like it needs it.
1973 Carmine red 2500PI (work in progress)
1975 Mk 2 Stag (white)
1975 Mk 2 Stag (white)
Re: Rear swing arms
You are right Simon, the rear hubs are sealed and not greaseable.
I don't know what grease you are thinking of using on the sliding splines, but I find CV joint grease as good as any.
I don't know what grease you are thinking of using on the sliding splines, but I find CV joint grease as good as any.
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red