First drive in 14 years,was bitter sweet...Autobox issue

[Forkie]

So I get the call this morning, as today was unusually forecast as being dry and sunny ( been wet everyday for weeks) to pop out and do this first test drive
Anticipation of being able to actually drive it again (and legally i might add! ) after such a long time and with so much work being done was high as to be expected !!!
It was certainly nice to get behind the wheel again, and with my youngest lad who has been waiting so long for his maiden voyage - never have I seen him smile so much... and all the onlookers.., pointing, staring,wondering what the h**l that is
So without waffling on, ironically the teething issues we found were nothing to do with any of the work that has been carried out. Firstly, it would seem the water pump has had enough at 47 and has decided to leak - not bothered there as easy enough fix and the part is available.
The second issue however is more worrying - the BW 35 is not changing up in D. I know it has been a while since i last drove it but it used to be fine, and im fairly sure in D it would change up around 30 odd mph, then again in the late 40 mph range ( i may be wrong,been a while, but thats how i vaguely remember it).
The long and short as it stands is - from a standing start, select 1 move into 2 is fine, from 2 into D is fine, but when in D it will not change up. I never or rarely used 1 or 2, just always selected D from start to finish. I only went through the 1-2-D option today a couple of times to see if it ' wake up D'. I get to around 43mph,revs at around 2200 - and thats it, seems to be stuck at that. Didnt want to bang the throttle down as that to me is not right.
Any help on this would be appreciated, we certainly did not expect this issue

[Forkie]

As an aside,thinking on from that post - on returning back home with it earlier, i did check in the manual about checking the oil level in the box - so went through what was recommended and did just that. it seems to have the correct level - in all honesty i was struggling to see the actual level on the dipstick - its not that red - only at the very tip - i had to use tissue paper to gauge the level on the dipstick. It seems very clear, as oppose the red that seems to be favorite. Deffinately however not a burnt colour though, and no nasty smells that i detected. Could it just need a fluid renewel?

[iani]

Does “D” rely on the correct setting of the kick down lever? Could that have been disturbed whilst off the road?

Ian

[johnnydog]

Unless there has been any work on the gearbox or kick down linkage, a period of standing shouldn't affect the point of gearchange or kickdown relative to the linkage or cable (depending on if Mk1 or Mk2). You can adjust the movement of the throttle pedal relative to kickdown, easily on a Mk1; correct adjustment details of this are in the workshop manual. However, auto boxes don't take too kindly to long periods of standing / inactivity.
Personally, I would do an oil change on it. See how it is after the first oil change, run it for a short period going through all the gears, and then do another oil change. This helps to ensure all the oil is new, as some oil is retained in the torque converter after draining, so doing a couple of changes and a short run between will help to ensure the majority of oil is 'new'.
The level should only be checked on a level surface with the engine running in Park, and at normal working temperature. I have found that reading the oil level on a Triumph auto gearbox dipstick is not a simple or clear as you would expect, as there is always some oil residue on the upper part of the actual dipstick above the actual oil level.

[Dave B]

There is a member on here, 'harvey', who has experience in BW35 gearboxes.
Look him up in the members list and pm him your symptoms, its a good place to start.
Good luck.

[Forkie]

Hi guys, thanks for the replies so far. Regarding any disturbance to the 'box or anything around it, nothing has been touched from when it was last driven, other than a new rear seal before re-installing the prop,and a new rear mount, it was changing fine beforehand,apart from the clunking u/j's , which i have not been able to hear if that is now gone as it won't change !!! Not understanding auto's at all makes it even more odd that it will happily take off in 1,shift to 2 then shift to D - so that all shifts ok - get into D and it just does not want to shift anymore - i take it 1 and 2 movements are different to the movements in D ?
Am i just not driving it hard enough? I'm never lead footed anyway hence happy with a lazy auto, but was even more cautious yesterday obviousy, with the lay up time /work carried out. To me it just was not going to go much past 40mph (much to the anger of all the plastic vehicles behind) - it got to that speed and it was as if the box was holding the car back. I have a long fairly steep hill as i arrive into my town and even rolling down there it was just being held back.
Johnnydog - yes oil level was checked when i parked up in my garage after the drive back, let it idle for a couple minutes in Park,pulled the dip out,wipe,back in and out again as per the manual. It really was a heck of a job to determine the level as per previous post. Admittedly it has never been changed since i have owned it, but with so little miles covered, and the oil looks really clean i didn't think to worry about it,and it certainly has not emptied the sump all over the garage floor which must be good Perhaps i will do as you suggest and just get it changed anyhow, and go from there.
As an aside Johnnydog, did you receive my email regarding valuation?
Many thanks, Nige.

[SimonR]

I get to around 43mph,revs at around 2200 - and thats it.


Just a quick thought

According to my handbook for my 2.5S (has the BW65 Box) the MPH per 1000 revs is 20.5 so at 2200revs your speed should be around 45MPH so it is not far out - the BW35 may have slightly different gearing, but it looks as if the box has changed into 3rd (top) when you have selected D for Drive.

Hope that helps

[Forkie]

Dave B - Thanks for the 'Harvey ' tip - i seem to recall him from a while back - i have sent him a message - again, many thanks for that

[Forkie]

Simon R thanks for input, and has made me think.... When i had this on the road all those years ago, everything was worn out/clunking/banging etc, even though it had a low mileage, the single PO had changed nothing. Anyhow - thats why it ended up coming off the road.
Forward fast to now, it has had so much,in fact everything replaced and renewed, it ought to drive like a new one !!!! So on our test run yesterday, on our first semi long straight where i was expecting the usual clunk up and clunk up again,which didnt happen ..... is that down to all the new parts and now smooth as silk???
But if that is the case, why cant i get anymore than 42 mph out of her......
Food for thought though.
Something, somewhere does not make sense.
Regards,Nige.

[Forkie]

Took the plugs out tonight, same plugs that have been in the car since lay up, although newly installed at that time ,NGK's. As all they had done over the lay up period is cold start and idle, they would appear sooty.
So since they served a proper purpose yesterday, as in an actual run, i thought i would check in on them. Front bank - darkish brown,dry. Rear bank - all but black,dry. So to me that indicates a soundish front carb, but a rich running rear ? Cant see that being a bearing on the box, but just thought i would mention it.
Regards,Nige.