The 2500

[mach1rob]

Having finally had a bit of spare time at last, finally managed to get a few small jobs done.

Thanks to Mike, the replacement column locking handle has been fitted, along with a new Polybush for the bulkhead as the one that should have been there was long gone, was a bit awkward getting the column back into the UJ on my own but we managed it. While I had all the dash out I took the opportunity to repaint the dial surrounds as they were pitted and rusty, and managed to crack the fuel gauge glass in the process

Also had the chance to tidy the grille up with a new coat of paint, I'm still not sure about blacking the headlight surround parts, and may return them back to original silver, and I fitted the lenses I made up.

Work is progressing well making up a frame to fit my Rover 214 SEi seats, and if we get a nice day this week they may actually get fitted.

Final job to get sorted is to see why the overdrive has decided not to play ball all of a sudden, it worked fine one minute, then later on decided enough was enough and wouldn't engage. Tried one more time and it worked, but it's not worked since. I think I shall have to start with the multimeter and prodding wires unless anyone else has a better suggestion?

[Mike Stevens]

Thanks to Mike

Glad to help!

If you've got an 'A' type, check to see if the relay behind the passenger's parcel shelf is clicking. That at least tells you if it's the switch or solonoid.

If it's a 'J' type it doesn't have a relay - although I think it's better with as the in-rush current to the solonoid is quite high and the switch contacts get dirty and intermittant. Ah, does that sound familiar? Try removing the switch and shorting the 2 wires together. Be careful as one of them is live and don't hold either of them when the solonoid releases. The back-EMF from the coil will make you jump. Don't ask how I know.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Alec]

Hello Rob,

a common cause of intermittent overdrive operation is the wiring in the gear lever, it often breaks in the base of the gear lever.

Alec

[kevinw]

what size wheels and tyres do you have fitted? they look very nice (I do like Minilites)

Kevin

[Charles H]

Kevin

My Mk1 has Minilites, but I have two sets. One the standard 13" 5.5JU with 175 80 13 tyres as per original, the other on 14" 5.5J wheels. The second set is because I needed snow tyres, and they are not available at all in 13". The tyre size is 175 70 14 and the rolling radius is such that no appreciable change in speedo calibration is observed. The Retrotrip only required about a 5 point change. The wear in a set of tyres can and often is more than this. Tyres for 13" wheels are becoming more and more dificult to source. I am currently using Uniroyal 380s, but would suggest that if you invest in new wheel, 14" is the way to go.

[mach1rob]

Thanks for the overdrive tips, can hear the relay clicking by the fusebox, I did pull the console up and it appears someone has replaced the wiring at some point as it's been fitted with a a bit of twin core cable.

As the wifes friend came round today, I got a chance to play a bit more, went to try the seat and found that it wouldn't sit over to the centre enough, so plan C, I drilled the runner to match the 2 bolt holes in the Triumph floor, then made up 2 new brackets to mate runner to the holes opposite. Now I know what I'm doing, the passenger side should be a doddle now.

[Mike Stevens]

I like that seat. Colin (CRAJ) has got some similar fitted to his estate (or is it the PI Colin?)

I had the same problem with the overdrive on my PI. Power was getting to the solonoid OK, but it wasn't moving.

The 'A' type solonoids have 2 coils, a high current 'pull-in' coil and a lower current 'holding coil'. At rest, a little switch under the rubber cover connects the high current coil so when it gets power, the plunger pulls in like a good'un. When it gets right in, the switch then opens, switching off the power to the pull-in coil, just leaving the holding coil powered.

Now, if that little switch gets dirty contacts, then the pull-in coil gets no power and the overdrive doesn't work.

Having got the solonoid off the car, pull back the rubber cover and you can see the mechanism. I got mine to work again by some contact cleaning but mainly by gently bending the contacts so they made a better, lower resistance contact. It's been fine ever since.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Mike.

[CAR]

Similar to my Rover seats,(from a 600Ti) and currently in the estate, although only 16 bolts away from a complete swap round.
I have also got some far more extreme front seats recently, but more on those and their use in the future.

Colin.

[englishbull]

Similar to my Rover seats,(from a 600Ti) and currently in the estate, although only 16 bolts away from a complete swap round.
I have also got some far more extreme front seats recently, but more on those and their use in the future.

Colin.

Ah .................so the seats are now public eh?...............or does the second half of your username still not know..........


PS Alfa 156 seats are also very good swaps

[mach1rob]

Thanks Mike, I shall endeavour to clamber underneath when I get chance, a bad back at the moment makes things awkward. There was something that made a funny whirrrrrrring noise not that long before it refused to engage again, but seeing as it actually worked later on with no noise makes me think it had nothing to do with the OD.

As for the seats they're out of a 214 SEi, very similar to the Ti seats and those from the 800 Vitesse. The 200 rear seat is too narrow to fit leaving a large gap either end, so I may look to see if 800 rear ones will fit, but current plan is to fit a rear vinyl seat, then see if I can get the fabric added at some point to match the fronts, I will see how funds and things pan out.