The Triumph 2000 / 2500 / 2·5 Register Forum

Hello all

I am heavily considering buying a manual 1978 2500 tc here in Australia, but having not owned one previously I am not aware of any potential pitfalls.

What are the most common mechanical faults that I need to look out for
Are there any spots on the car that are prone to rust
Anything else I should know before I hand over some money??

I look forward to hearing from you in the near future

Luke

Hello Luke,

generally a robust car mechanically, but worth checking are:-
crankshaft end float, which if not spotted can allow the thrust bearing to drop out of its location and subsequent running will damage the block and crank. For a 2.5 the end float when assembling should be between 6 and 8 thou with shell thickness being abou 100 thou so that gives some idea of what is excessive. Not a big or expensive job if caught soon enough and can be done in situ.
Clutches can be a problem so ensure that the car you are looking at has a clutch that allows clean selection of first and reverse at rest when hot and generally a smooth change.

Rust, particularly here in the U.K. is the big issue as although very strong when rust gets into the shell it is expensive or time consuming to repair as everything is double or triple skinned. These include the wheel arches, sills and outriggers, Lift the carpets along the edge of the sill from the front footwell all the way to the back seat and if you can pull out the rear seat base and sound deadening to inspect the edges of the seat pan at the wheel arches in particular.

Alec

Luke,

Just to expand/amplify on Alec's excellent advice:
- Rust; pay particular attention to the base of the front windscreen pillars where they go behind the front wings, and the sills at the back of the front wheelarches. Rainwater is allowed to drain through here and, if neglected, things in this area can corrode badly. Also, when you've got the rear seat cushion up, look for signs of corrosion or stress-cracking in the floor around the rear suspension mountings. Door bottoms are prone to perforation if the drain holes have become blocked and/or weatherstrips at the base of the door glasses have perished. Front windscreen seals are a common cause of leaks, so check for any signs of dampness/corrosion around the front floorwells and bulkhead areas. Late UK-built cars are reckoned to rust more badly than earlier ones, but don't know whether similar applies to Australian or NZ-built cars;
- Mechanical; worthwhile just giving a general eye to the condition of suspension and driveline components - the cars are robust and not that complex by modern standards, but there's still a lot to repair/replace if a car has been hard-used or neglected. Excessive oil leakage around the differential nosepiece might indicate problems with the diff pinion seal which, if not cured, can lead to failure of the adjacent quillshaft bearing. Oil leakage from the diff output shafts is similarly curable, but not without difficulty as the flanges can be very difficult to remove from the shafts themselves. Check the rear wheelbearings for smoothness and no excess play, as they're not really a viable proposition for most DIY rebuilders (though replacing the entire driveshaft/bearing assembly is easy, though possibly not cheap!). Handbrakes are variable in performance - most problems can usually be overcome by careful adjustment, but do watch out for a sloppy handbrake lever which can be early warning of the lever assembly tearing itself out of the floor! Assume that with a manual 2500TC of this age you'll have overdrive as well, so check that it operates reasonably smoothly and promptly (3rd and 4th gears only).
- Other; interior furnishings were also mostly of good quality, but remember that all that woodwork and carpet can be very expensive to refurbish or replace, and some saloon-specific parts are now getting difficult to find, so a good interior is a definite bonus if you're planning on keeping the car.

I think that covers most areas, but others on this Forum may be able to suggest other things to look out for. Good luck!

Alec and John

Thankyou for your help

I will be looking at the car on Monday afternoon and if all things are equal I think it will be coming home with me.

The only other items that the seller has told me is that it has been serviced and maintained by a specialist workshop and he replaced the overdrive gearbox with a non overdrive variant.

The heater has been disconnected because apparently it was leaking.

Cheers

Luke

Hello Luke,

good luck, and at least it sounds as though it has been well looked after. It will be very worth while hunting out a second hand Overdrive box as they are very useful.

Alec

Luke

What part of Australia do you live in? You will find at least 2 fellow Australians on this forum, myself in Canberra & Greeks in Melbourne. I am sure that either of us would be more than happy to help if close.

No matter where in Australia you live, it would be recommended that you join the local Triumph Car Club. They would also have people knowledgeable in these cars available to help you.

Remember that the 2500 sedan is not the most expensive of Triumphs in Australia. Whilst price is dependent on condition, I have seen quite a few 2500's in roadworthy condition for around $1000. My 1976 TC cost me only $250 a few months ago, but I had to spend around $1000 in parts to get her up to roadworthy standard. This was good for me, as it saved her from the wreckers & gave me a cheap project to learn the technology before playing with a Spitfire I had also purchased.

Best of luck, let us know how you get on.

Simon

Yes, Luke - what Canberra Triumph said.

A 1978 model can only be an 'S' rather than a TC, so it would be interesting to see what the car is.
Engine number and commission should begin MM ... if not then the engine has been replaced and you might want to ask questions. Likewise it should have 1.75 inch HS6 SU carburettors - if it has Strombergs then it's an older model. This might not bother you, but it's nice to know these things before you part with cash!

Really you'd be better off with a model with overdrive - and it's unusual for a late model (especially) to not have this.

Depends how much you're paying for this car, but I don't think anything over $1500 in this country should have any rust or obvious repairs.

Hi guys

I had a look at it today and the end result was that I put an offer on it that was refused

The car is actually a 1977 2500 TC according to the plate on the body and the engine number started with MM as greeks stated.

Anyway the car was pretty good all round with some surface rust in the usual places and nicks and bangs every where, but my biggest worry was the fact that there was a clunk every time I took off in 1st.

I am still on the lookout for something decent but not too pricey, so if anyone knows of a 2500 S or TC in South Australia that is rust free and reliable it would be much appreciated.

Cheers for the advice

Luke

Hi Luke

It's good not to buy the first car you see I'm still surprised it was a TC as late as '77 though rather than an S.

The TSOA South Australia http://www.tsoasa.com/ should be able to help you... gorgeous MK1 Estate on the home page.

I've seen some very nice cars come up in SA over the last few years. A mate in Adelaide recently told me of a very interesting car that needed a bit of finishing off. Had a very nice spec. (rebuilt 2.7 motor read to go in, etc) but was going to be scrapped due to lack of storage! He already has 2 nice PIs and I don't have room for it, either.

There's a nice ebay Mk2 PI in Devonport which is unlikely to sell for much more than it's listed if you're interested. Lots of good Triumphs in Tassie. Plus you'd have a PI!