Best Springs for Handling?

[murcod]

vs (excuse the clutter/ picture quality, but you get the idea)

[murcod]

The Witor springs will probably be too expensive - 100 pounds shipping and the pricing is for one spring. (I've never seen springs priced individually before- what use is one?!)

The local "standard height/ uprated" front springs are probably my best (safest) option. The heavier engine should drop the front a bit and I canl just get them reset if they're too high.

[owen1183]

Love the colour murcod!!!!

I know as standard the front is slightly higher on the S models than the rear.

you can buy thicker spring insulators for the rear to raise it up, if you are worried.

Also Monarch stag (http://www.monarch-stags.co.uk/) do adjustable platform front struts, so you can adjust front ride height

Dont know what postage would be though?

[andyborris]

Rally Design sell the bits to convert a strut yourself, if you can weld and work a grinder!

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=1358

[murcod]

Love the colour murcod!!!!

Thanks, I thought it was funny that you've got what appears the same colour, you'll have to excuse the white parts..... I don't know what the official colour name was here as I've found the colour code brings up a Toyota colour. The Aussie 2500's were assembled locally, so I guess they used similar local colours? (Toyota had a complete manufacturing plant and I think it was part of "AMI" - Australian Motor Industries where the Triumphs were assembled? I've removed the AMI badges off my guards.)

Thanks for the tips on the other parts. The Monarch bits would be nice, but they're hard to justify (unlike their alloy four spot calipers that I've already got - they saved me from a serious accident today.)

I've been trying to establish engine weights- from searching it appears the 2500 engine is around 185kg. I haven't had much luck getting the specs on the Holden 202 engine, but it's higher and longer and larger in capacity (so I'd assume heavier as it's all cast iron.)

I'm tempted to try a quick mod on the weekend to drop the front end. If the front drops the rear should rise a bit and it should alleviate the front positive camber. I can then use shims to try and get the front camber sorted before I trash some expensive tyres.

I've ordered some poly springs insulators and the shims to do the rear toe in. Ultimately I can see me needing new springs.

[murcod]

I just found this on the Monarch site too (referring to Stags, but I guess the 2500 would be similar?):

NB. Standard Height is 141/2" measured from the centre axis of the wheel to the underside of the top of the wheel arch (ie. at 12 o' clock). This is for both front and back wheels. I recommend that the front is 1/2" lower than the back. A slight forward rake looks right. Level is OK, but the back must not be lower than the front.

[Jonathan Lewis]

I've been trying to establish engine weights- from searching it appears the 2500 engine is around 185kg. I haven't had much luck getting the specs on the Holden 202 engine, but it's higher and longer and larger in capacity (so I'd assume heavier as it's all cast iron.)

I'm tempted to try a quick mod on the weekend to drop the front end. If the front drops the rear should rise a bit and it should alleviate the front positive camber. I can then use shims to try and get the front camber sorted before I trash some expensive tyres.

Just one (wild?) thought, David - if the Holden engine is deeper than the Triumph unit, has someone put spacers between the front suspension crossmember and the chassis rails in order to give sump clearance without fouling the bonnet above? I have heard of this being done with Rover V8-engined Stags to allow use of the standard Rover inlet manifold and SU set-up without recourse to a bonnet hump. If done, could this perhaps be raising the front ride height (which does look high) and leading to a positive camber condition?

[CAR]

The spacers on the subframe that you talk about Jonathan have to be used on a big saloon too if using the RV8 and not wanting ugly protrusions on the bonnet.

When I got our pi the rear end was a little saggy and it made the front look higher. Some of Chris's standard height uprated rear springs and superflex insulators, with some NOS Gabriel red ryder shocks soon perked it up and had the effect of 'lowering' the front end and making the steering more positive. Long overhangs, especially at the rear do give the original springs a hard time, 35+ years of use doesn't help much either.

Colin.

[Alec]

Hello Jonathan,

that, surely, will not affect the ride height just alter the angle of the track control arm relative to the base of the strut (which will alter the camber also?) and probably result in the track control arm contacting the bump stop?

Alec

[CAR]

I just found this on the Monarch site too (referring to Stags, but I guess the 2500 would be similar?):

NB. Standard Height is 141/2" measured from the centre axis of the wheel to the underside of the top of the wheel arch (ie. at 12 o' clock). This is for both front and back wheels. I recommend that the front is 1/2" lower than the back. A slight forward rake looks right. Level is OK, but the back must not be lower than the front.

The Stag has round front and rear arches where as the 2000 has a flattened top to the rear arches, so I don't think you could use that partof the measurement on our cars.

Colin.