Starter for 10

Engine Oily Bits, Ignition, Fuelling, Cooling, Exhaust, etc.
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simon.williams
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Starter for 10

#1 Post by simon.williams »

So the good news is that the engine turns over nice & lively, and the fuel guage works. So things could be worse!

I had a go at firing it up, but it wasn’t having it. So now its checklist time.

The pump spins quite fast and didn’t seem to slow down so my first suspicion is fuel not getting through. Does the pump slow or stop when there is fuel pressure?

Is there an easy way to check if fuel is getting through? Should I remove an injector for example?

Or should I check for a spark first?

Any tips gratefully received.
iani
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Re: Starter for 10

#2 Post by iani »

If this is the first start after a long period, it can take a lot of cranking to get the fuel through to the injectors, you can easily drain a battery. You can try bleeding the injectors by removing one at a time and checking for a spray on cranking, holding the injector up will encourage the air to bleed out, snapping the injector tip out & letting go helps.
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simon.williams
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Re: Starter for 10

#3 Post by simon.williams »

Thanks Iani, this car had previously been stood for 20 years. Might need a second battery!
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Alec
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Re: Starter for 10

#4 Post by Alec »

Hello Simon,

do ensure you have a good spark as that eliminates one side.

Are you aware that you need to pull the choke out, I'm sure you would as with any cold start but just checking?

I can hear the fuel pump on my car slow down slightly as pressure builds in the system, but it is no more than that. It should never stop.

A common trick with older racing cars with fuel injection is to squirt fuel down the air intakes while cranking, although that is probably no more than overcoming a lack of choke. It is a simple check though to confirm that the ignition side is OK or not.

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simon.williams
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Re: Starter for 10

#5 Post by simon.williams »

Thanks Alec, I have seen a few other threads and sounds like I really have to crank it like a maniac (lucky neighbours) before examining other possible faults.

I did pull the choke, but will ensure it is fully open.

I will also check for a spark and see if I can bleed the injectors.

Whilst trying not to set fire to the whole shebang - might pass on the squirting fuel unless I get to the point where I no longer care!
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Re: Starter for 10

#6 Post by johnnydog »

If it's been standing for 20 years, and you haven't done already, I'd be tempted to drain all the old fuel out of the tank from the outlet at the bottom, rather than just add fresh fuel to the old stuff in the tank, then perhaps put a couple of gallons of fresh fuel in to flush out as much of the old sediment / crud as possible, then replenish with new. I'd also replace the fuel filter in the boot too prior to cranking. You be surprised how stale old fuel gets which will certainly hinder the car from starting after being laid up for so long.
Have you cracked the fuel inlet pipe at the metering unit to see if fuel seeps from it?
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simon.williams
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Re: Starter for 10

#7 Post by simon.williams »

Thanks, I had the tank out & gravel shaken (so much rust) then coated with a liner. I will crack the metering unit & see if fuel getting there..
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Re: Starter for 10

#8 Post by simon.williams »

So fuel is (or can) get to the metering unit, as when I disconnected the pipe and switched on pump I got a big puddle very fast. I didn’t turn the motor over yet, but with just the pump on fuel doesn’t seem to circulate back to the tank via the return pipe. Does that sound right or might I have a blockage in the unit itself?
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Re: Starter for 10

#9 Post by simon.williams »

Youtube has a short film on the metering unit & injector bleeding for a TR6 which I assume is similar to the PI...at least my diaphram passes the "suck test"...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKT2IDbSMSQ
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Re: Starter for 10

#10 Post by Alec »

Hello Simon,

yes the TR6 (and5) are the same as the saloon.
A personal opinion but I have never 'bled' the system and don't believe it is necessary (Unlike older diesel engines).

If you do not appear to be getting any sign of life after say a couple of minutes, I would double check your injection timing. (The manual gives the wrong picture of the metering unit port positions.) Also do try the squeezy bottle of petrol into the intakes while someone else cranks the engine.
This then proves that it is the fuel system if it fires up.

As an aside, since owning a MK2 Jaguar (and still do) which the starter solenoid can also be operated manually under the bonnet which I found useful,
so I fitted a button under the bonnet of my Triumph to operate the starter.

Alec
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