Trailing arms

[Roscoe]

Hello all having a load of work on my pi done £10000 worth !! New struts,welding, diff bolts ( the ones that the diff is bolted to), new springs,new shockers, new steering rack, brake pipes, wheel cylinders , and overhaul on front callipers, new cv driveshafts, etc etc.
What I want to know is are the trailing arms on the mk1 the same as the mk2
They have stripped it down and one of the studs sheared and the thread has stripped inside rather than trying to helicoil it they have recommended I fit a replacement trailing arm there is one on ebay for a mk1 new old stock.

[johnnydog]

No! Mk1 trailing arms are not the same as the Mk2, and as the track is wider on the Mk2 they have an enlongated hub section. There are a few differences with the brake pipe and brake hose mountings. They definately aren't the same.....here is a photo from CW's website which clearly shows the differences....

[johnnydog]

Depending on how soon you actually need one relative to the other work you are having done (£10k seems a high figure for what you have mentioned, unless the list is a good bit longer!!), I have a few good used ones (both sides), but I won't be able to get access to them for another 2 weeks. Maybe someone else may have a spare one that is suitable in the mean time - if not, let me know if this may be of use to you.

[Alec]

Hello Roscoe,

personally I would be very happy with helicolied repairs on the trailing arm.

There is another solution, this company (https://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.c ... +ARM+STUDS) sells a stud with 3/8" UNC thread one end and 5/16" UNF thread the other for the standard nuts to secure the shaft onto the arm.
The procedure is to drill and tap the trailing arm to suit the new studs. However this needs to be done accurately to ensure the studs are vertical to the mounting face otherwise it will impair fitting the drive shafts. See their website for full details.
This is a properly engineered solution and bear in mind that any second hand replacement arms may have been over tightened in the past?

Alec

[Roscoe]

Thank you Johnnydog that clears that one up most of that £10000 is labour they want to cut out and replace a new piece of metal on both sides of the subframe (the mounts under the rear seat can’t think what you call them) the near side one has been welded before and they have said it is a poor weld and yes it’s not that good there is corrosion on the offside one as well with a small hole in the sill although the jacking points are solid they have put a bore scope inside the sills and it appears they are pretty good.

The car was ziebarted from new and has stood the test of time pretty good with no other corrosion anywhere else. Thanks for the offer of the trailing arm but they need one this week really going to get one from rimmers I think the company that’s doing the work are really fussy which I suppose is no bad thing.

[johnnydog]

No problem! If they are doing an excellent job and you're happy with their work and price, then that's all that matters. Knowing the 'in's and out's' of our cars is important in any restoration / repair work to ensure it is refabricated to the original spec - I' ve seen so many Triumphs (2000's etc) over the years that have been repaired with new metal welded in, and although strong and to MOT standards, unfortunately it hasn't always been as original, and it then spoils an otherwise solid repair.

[Richard B]

I have always been happy with helicoiling the trailing arm studs. Never had a problem with one subsequently.

Bear in mind the Stag traling arm is the same as a MkII trailing arm if you are still looking for a replacement.