what coil for 2 5s 1975

Message

sent38 · #1 Post by **sent38** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:41 pm

 Hi all in need of some top advice, took the head of me 2 5s no prbs.
but noticed it had an non ballast resisted coil. I was wondering if any one knows if it should have a ballast resister and coil to match.
1975 2 5s
could not get over drive to work Jtype but got wiring diagram from C W and it had been fitted with an Atype at some point and it was wired going through two relays before going to the plunger, and the over drive had been change to an j type and the two wires attched to the plunger ,so it worked for a bit then stopped. redone the wires and now you can flick the switch, and you can hear the plunger if you got the door open, wont know if it works until I put the head back on. This was all done before I got it I have had it 6 weeks, thats why I\'m not to shure what coil it should have.
 
 

#2 Post by **Alan Chatterton** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:46 am

Non Ballast resistor coil is correct.
Should be a Lucas 12V coil........but only runs 12v on cranking, 6v normally.
If you can hear the O/D plunger going in and out (make sure its not the relay you hear if it has a relay) then it should work. (if it has oil in it!)
Good luck with the head!
 

sent38 · #3 Post by **sent38** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 2:03 am

Hi Alan, thanks for that, there is no realy I have taken them out becouse they are for an Atype, but I have got to put ep90 in the box. I had the o/d sump off and cleaned the oil retrun plunger and filter out as well, and to make shure the main plunger was working. As I had the box lowered I also put a new Inhibiter switch on the top.
One more thing !! rimmers have sent me a head rebuld kit ,in it are twin valve springs, but my head only has single valve springs. can I put the twins on it, if so do I need diffrent valve seats the one\'s that go under the spring on top of the headtop. I also had I slite misfire could not find it ???<IMG> NO:2 and no:6 outlet had the valve seat, the one that should go under the spring on the head,!!! they were under the valve coller and it was not seated and you can see that it was blowing passed. so I hope that was the misfire on tick over.
  pete

#4 Post by **Mike Stevens** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:58 pm

Hi Pete,
The ballast resistor is in the wiring harness in late cars like yours.
I\'m pretty sure that the valve springs on an \'S\' are just singles, but I\'ll have to check the parts book to be sure.  Springs should really match the CAM and if the CAM is original then you ought really to use the original type springs.  CW will know and I can check the parts book.
You can just about check the CAM type with the head off.  If you look down one of the front oil drain holes, and turn the engine over, you should be able to see the CAM part number stamped into the shaft.  It is somewhere \'up front\', maybe behind No1 inlet cam.  You may not be able to read it all, but just a few numbers will help!  (I can look those up as well!)
Cheers,
Mike.

sent38 · #5 Post by **sent38** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 1:20 am

 Hi Mike,
Yes it has single spings and ask CW he said it will be ok to run the twins, he could not see why rimmers sent twins, but they sent twins but no spring seats/collers for the twins so I have had to get these from cw but they are mached to the outer spring so i had to buy 12 more out side spings, but thay should be ok.
It has not long had a rebuild, the piston\'s are plus 20, and they were very clean, with no marks on them, and the head gaskit back oil well had gone thats why the oil was running down the back and over the gearbox.
I have gone for a 12inc elic fan to go in front of the rad, so i can take off the fan on the bottom pulley, but having big trouble getting the big bolt undone, will have to put it all back together, and looks like i will have to make a spacer to fit back in place were the vistose was. Had the rad recored, when I took it out, it all but fall out. The head is down at oeslli, it should be back Friday then put back together on Saturday, and rain or shine put some miles on her..<IMG> <IMG> <IMG> Sunday, mite take em all to cost if the sun is out! don\'t forget me rac card <IMG>.
I am up and down from Liverpool all week will keep you posted when I can, Thanks for all your help.
Pete<edited><editID>sent38</editID><editDate>39497.8080902778</editDate></edited>

Charles H · #6 Post by **Charles H** » Thu Feb 21, 2008 4:58 pm

Hello Sent 38
Many years ago I had a viscous fan pack up and replaced it with an electric one. I could not undo the bolt in the end of the crankshaft even with the car in gear, someone pushing the brake pedal and a correct solid bar and socket with a 6 foot scaffold pole as extra leverage. I did however overcome the problem by carefully cutting with a sharp cold chisel the aluminium casting splitting it away from the steel spinning disk inside. This was left on the end on the shaft and remains to this day!<IMG>

sent38 · #7 Post by **sent38** » Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:40 pm

Hi Charles H,
  I will give that a go, Thanks.
 
Pete<IMG>

sent38 · #8 Post by **sent38** » Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:05 am

Hi Charles,
  done it  spot on, a good chisel took about 5mins, thanks
 
Pete

sent38 · #9 Post by **sent38** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 3:25 am

Hi all, big up date on the head rebuild and refit<IMG> put it all back together 6-3-1 semi sport C/W exhaust, ally rockercover, head oil feed for the rockers, looks so sweet under there. BUT fired frist turn of the key, new points, condenser,dizy cap, plugs, leads, sounded sweet, warmed up on tick over reved it up spiting back through the carbs running on 3. so a lot of head scratching <IMG>. so new coil was got on the side it said use with ballast resistor mmmmmm? . So looking in the book should be yellow and brown wire to the coil, this is for the B/R ! not there. There was a red wire that had been fitted by some going to the coil from an ignition feed to bypass the B/R. so by the dizy cut back all the pvc tape on the wires, and there is the B/R wire <IMG> so reconnected it to the new coil cut the red away. back on all 6 loads of power no miss, no spiting back on song, it\'s now going to be tuned on a krypton tuner just to set the carbs and all that. SO THE MORAL IS CHECK IT ALL ? THERE ARE SOME NOBS THAT THINK THAY KNOW BUT THEY DON\'T KNOW ENUFF. the wireing was the same on the over drive so I will chq it all now. <IMG>
 Pete

Charles H · #10 Post by **Charles H** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:59 pm

Hi Pete
Glad you got it all back together OK! I am however not a great fan of the external rocker feed. Since the feed is taken from the main gallery it is bound to reduce the pressure and therefore feed to the big end and main bearings. A rocker shaft is easy to replace, the crankshaft and bearings are not! <IMG> The design was around for a long time, if Triumph thought the oil supply to the top of the engine was not good enough, they would have changed it! Just my opinion though!<IMG>
 