2500 S Project
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- Senior Member
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I’ve looked at the wiring diagrams for the 2 cars and the looms are different. I say different but they are achieving the same goal. It seems the pi connections on the tachometer has 2 (W and WS) and they go to the ballast. In the S it has a separate wire White/Slate on the coil for the tachometer and this is why it looks different to have the extra wire. However Im not ruling it out, I might have wire blindness.
Good job on the fix!
Good job on the fix!
Re: 2500 S Project
Makes sense to me At the end of the day it starts and the tacho works so I'm happy
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
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Re: 2500 S Project
Early and late tachos also work differently. Earlier ones are current driven and have two wires (current in and out). Later ones are voltage driven and have just the one wire from the coil/distributor connection.
If you remove the dash (or even just the tacho) on an early car, the engine won't run as there is no current out from the tacho! You can just connect the 2 wires together though. That works...
Cheers,
Mike.
If you remove the dash (or even just the tacho) on an early car, the engine won't run as there is no current out from the tacho! You can just connect the 2 wires together though. That works...
Cheers,
Mike.
(South Oxfordshire)
Register Member No 0355
1971 2.5PI Saloon Sapphire blue
1973 2.5PI Saloon rust some Honeysuckle
1973 Stag French blue
(1949 LandRover was blue should be light green!)
Register Member No 0355
1971 2.5PI Saloon Sapphire blue
1973 2.5PI Saloon rust some Honeysuckle
1973 Stag French blue
(1949 LandRover was blue should be light green!)
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- Senior Member
- Posts:288
- Joined:Tue Nov 19, 2013 8:50 pm
Re: 2500 S Project
A good move by triumph to change this would be annoying that you can’t start your car due to failed tachometer or a cable break. Thanks for that info mike!Mike Stevens wrote: ↑Sun Dec 23, 2018 12:47 pmEarly and late tachos also work differently. Earlier ones are current driven and have two wires (current in and out). Later ones are voltage driven and have just the one wire from the coil/distributor connection.
If you remove the dash (or even just the tacho) on an early car, the engine won't run as there is no current out from the tacho! You can just connect the 2 wires together though. That works...
Cheers,
Mike.
Re: 2500 S Project
A couple more updates on the 2500S blog for anyone that's interested
https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
Re: 2500 S Project
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
Re: 2500 S Project
Lessur,
great explanation in a plain,understandable language, in easily followed steps.Well done!
P.S. congratulations on fixing the dunny,I bet the bucket was pretty full and rancid
Regards,
Bill.
great explanation in a plain,understandable language, in easily followed steps.Well done!
P.S. congratulations on fixing the dunny,I bet the bucket was pretty full and rancid
Regards,
Bill.
Bill Young
1967 MK1 2000 MSS8E
1971 minivan IUI1588
1981 minivan TDS40W Now PMY453W
1962Greeves Sports Tourer 24DC 114 GGD
1998 Honda CB750, Deep Candy Apple Red.13500 Miles R191DVR
2020 Renault Trafic crew van 12 Miles 02-11-2020 TDS40W
1967 MK1 2000 MSS8E
1971 minivan IUI1588
1981 minivan TDS40W Now PMY453W
1962Greeves Sports Tourer 24DC 114 GGD
1998 Honda CB750, Deep Candy Apple Red.13500 Miles R191DVR
2020 Renault Trafic crew van 12 Miles 02-11-2020 TDS40W
Re: 2500 S Project
Another update on the 2500S Project for those who love gearboxes https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
Re: 2500 S Project
Great write up!! Still would have done the both out underneath method however. A piece of rope holding the suspension arms to each other means the shell is still moveable!
Looking forward to the next instalment!
Looking forward to the next instalment!
Charles Harrison
Register member 3095
Folkestone
Cherry Red Mk1 2000 Rally Car
Mallard Blue 2.5PI
Sapphire Blue GT6 Mk3
Vermillion Red Spitfire 1500
Pimento Red TR6
Inky Blue VW Passat B5.5
Silver Range Rover Vogue SE
Register member 3095
Folkestone
Cherry Red Mk1 2000 Rally Car
Mallard Blue 2.5PI
Sapphire Blue GT6 Mk3
Vermillion Red Spitfire 1500
Pimento Red TR6
Inky Blue VW Passat B5.5
Silver Range Rover Vogue SE
Re: 2500 S Project
Another enjoyable read!
Regarding the engine and gearbox removal, every one has their preferred method. I personally prefer to remove the gearbox from below, and then the engine from above.
One point I find makes life easier when removing the gearbox is to raise the rear wheels higher than the front wheels, so that when the rear cross member is removed and the engine is allowed drop at the back end to rest against the bulkhead, the gearbox is still in a horizontal plane. This obviously easier if using a pit or a ramp, but is still possible if doing it your back, but needs the space at the front of the car to actually do the job! The obvious securing of the vehicle at this height off the floor is important if using the floor rather than a pit or ramp, but it is still possible. This allows the transmission jack (whether that be one on a trolley jack if working on the floor, or a vertical transmission jack if using a pit or a ramp) to be drawn backwards without risking damage to the input shaft. On reassembly, once the gearbox has been raised to the correct height, it can be moved forwards on the jack and mated to the engine with ease. Having the engine tilted backwards just makes the job of mating the two harder, and the height has to be altered continuously when moving the jack / gearbox towards the engine.
Works well for me, especially if doing it singlehandedly.
I also put a piece of heavy duty foam between the back of the cylinder head and the bulkhead, so it protects the insulation and the brake pipes from damage.
Regarding the engine and gearbox removal, every one has their preferred method. I personally prefer to remove the gearbox from below, and then the engine from above.
One point I find makes life easier when removing the gearbox is to raise the rear wheels higher than the front wheels, so that when the rear cross member is removed and the engine is allowed drop at the back end to rest against the bulkhead, the gearbox is still in a horizontal plane. This obviously easier if using a pit or a ramp, but is still possible if doing it your back, but needs the space at the front of the car to actually do the job! The obvious securing of the vehicle at this height off the floor is important if using the floor rather than a pit or ramp, but it is still possible. This allows the transmission jack (whether that be one on a trolley jack if working on the floor, or a vertical transmission jack if using a pit or a ramp) to be drawn backwards without risking damage to the input shaft. On reassembly, once the gearbox has been raised to the correct height, it can be moved forwards on the jack and mated to the engine with ease. Having the engine tilted backwards just makes the job of mating the two harder, and the height has to be altered continuously when moving the jack / gearbox towards the engine.
Works well for me, especially if doing it singlehandedly.
I also put a piece of heavy duty foam between the back of the cylinder head and the bulkhead, so it protects the insulation and the brake pipes from damage.
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
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