Hello Again!
As usual I need some assistance from you all for my 1966 Mark1 2000. I removed my leaky manual overdrive transmission and thought to take the clutch out as well. The throwout bearing (sorry for the American vernacular but I don\'t know the real name) was pretty chewed up with lots of rough edges. The clutch cover also looked pretty bad to me as well with some shiny metal areas. I took the whole lot to my mechanic. He will be replacing the seals and giving the tranny a once-over. When he looked at the throwout bearing he thought it strange that it was so rough. He looked at the clutch cover and realized the the bearing and cover didn\'t have the same face type. The bearing was rounded and the cover was flat. He said he hadn\'t seen this particular clutch on a Triumph before but thought it wasn\'t right for the car even though it worked fine. We don\'t have many of these cars over here so I am in desperate need of help to figure out the right clutch for my car. I am putting up a few pictures. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The current clutch is a Borg & Beck #461183(or 5) Type B 8 1/2.
Thanks!
Mary
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Clutch Help Please!
Hello Mary
I have seen this type of cover plate on early Mk1\'s in the past. This is correct for the car. The release bearing you do not show, however it is recommended that all three parts of the clutch, plate, cover and release bearing, are replaced as a \'kit\'. Your car may have had only the release bearing and the driven plate changed in the past. As you have the gearbox out, it is prudent to check the bushes in the release shaft and the pin holding the carrier onto the shaft. These tend to break allowing the carrier to twist on the shaft. Once a new clutch is installed, the problem manifests itself with the plate not being released entirely causing clutch drag. This would then mean another gearbox removal! Something to be avoided if at all possible.
Good luck.
I have seen this type of cover plate on early Mk1\'s in the past. This is correct for the car. The release bearing you do not show, however it is recommended that all three parts of the clutch, plate, cover and release bearing, are replaced as a \'kit\'. Your car may have had only the release bearing and the driven plate changed in the past. As you have the gearbox out, it is prudent to check the bushes in the release shaft and the pin holding the carrier onto the shaft. These tend to break allowing the carrier to twist on the shaft. Once a new clutch is installed, the problem manifests itself with the plate not being released entirely causing clutch drag. This would then mean another gearbox removal! Something to be avoided if at all possible.
Good luck.
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Clifford Pope
- Senior Member
- Posts: 959
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 3:50 pm
- Location: United Kingdom
I second that, from bitter experience! (See my long thread here some months ago). Make sure you get the full kit from someone reputable, and watch for the little slipper pads and carrier. There is also a tiny steel pin, about 1/2\" long which secures the bearing to the carrier. It\'s easy to lose it when you rip open your pack of goodies.
Check the bush inside the flywheel is not worn or dry. Make sure you put the plate in the right way round. Replace the gearbox front oil seal if it is leaking. Clean up the gearbox shaft splines very carefully. There are different views as to whether this should be left dry, or have a tiny smear of copper grease, or be merely wiped with oil and dried off.
Check the bush inside the flywheel is not worn or dry. Make sure you put the plate in the right way round. Replace the gearbox front oil seal if it is leaking. Clean up the gearbox shaft splines very carefully. There are different views as to whether this should be left dry, or have a tiny smear of copper grease, or be merely wiped with oil and dried off.
Thanks Guys for your help!
I will take all your suggestions into account. I just hope I\'m able to get the thing back on myself. The old saying of \"Installation is the reverse of removal\" can be a load of -insert proper expletive here- ! I can always have it towed to my mechanic to fix but I really wanted to have a go myself. I\'ll think good thoughts for now.
As to a reputable supplier, who would you recommend? I have e-mailed Chris Witor but he hasn\'t replied to a single query I have sent him over the last seven years. I guess I will give him a call even though I will have to get up at four in the morning! There are few of the 2000 series in America so knowledge of good suppliers is limited. I would really appreciate any advice you can give me on this.
In the meantime at least I have the TR250 for consolation although it is not very good for picking up the weekly shopping!
Take care and thanks again for all your help!
Mary
I will take all your suggestions into account. I just hope I\'m able to get the thing back on myself. The old saying of \"Installation is the reverse of removal\" can be a load of -insert proper expletive here- ! I can always have it towed to my mechanic to fix but I really wanted to have a go myself. I\'ll think good thoughts for now.
As to a reputable supplier, who would you recommend? I have e-mailed Chris Witor but he hasn\'t replied to a single query I have sent him over the last seven years. I guess I will give him a call even though I will have to get up at four in the morning! There are few of the 2000 series in America so knowledge of good suppliers is limited. I would really appreciate any advice you can give me on this.
In the meantime at least I have the TR250 for consolation although it is not very good for picking up the weekly shopping!
Take care and thanks again for all your help!
Mary
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Clifford Pope
- Senior Member
- Posts: 959
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 3:50 pm
- Location: United Kingdom
There must be something wrong with your email connection with Chris
Witor. In my experience and many others he is the outstandingly
reliable and expert supplier of everything to do with the 2000. I would
always try him before all others, for advice, knowledge, and parts.
This is in my experience even more necessary with an early Mark 1,
because there were some oddities as designs changed, and these
subtleties are often ignored by regular suppliers who think only in
terms of a standard Mark 2.
Witor. In my experience and many others he is the outstandingly
reliable and expert supplier of everything to do with the 2000. I would
always try him before all others, for advice, knowledge, and parts.
This is in my experience even more necessary with an early Mark 1,
because there were some oddities as designs changed, and these
subtleties are often ignored by regular suppliers who think only in
terms of a standard Mark 2.
Thanks Clifford,
I will try Chris Witor again. I would really like to establish a working relationship with him. There are so few 2000\'s here that expertise is lacking and there are also no specialist suppliers.
As an aside, I took my TR250 for a 75 mile run as a tune-up for a rallye next weekend. The car ran great, the weather was fantastic, and we didn\'t even freeze to death with the top down-we are wimpy Southern Californians after all!
Happy Trails!
Mary
I will try Chris Witor again. I would really like to establish a working relationship with him. There are so few 2000\'s here that expertise is lacking and there are also no specialist suppliers.
As an aside, I took my TR250 for a 75 mile run as a tune-up for a rallye next weekend. The car ran great, the weather was fantastic, and we didn\'t even freeze to death with the top down-we are wimpy Southern Californians after all!
Happy Trails!
Mary