Front Suspension- Drag Strut Bushes

Everything that keeps your car in contact with the road, and from contacting other road users.
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Mary
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#1 Post by Mary »

Hello All,
I took my drag struts off to change the bushes this evening and I noticed that the nuts are of the nyloc variety. Can these be re-used or should they be replaced? Also, my manual has no information for this procedure so I am concerned that I might over/under tighten the nuts when I re-install the struts. Does anyone have any advice that will help me get this right? Thanks so much in advance!
Mary
1968 Triumph TR250, 1966 Triumph 2000, 1970 GT6 (in progress but really slowly)
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Alan Chatterton
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#2 Post by Alan Chatterton »

Hi Mary,
Yes they are nyloc, but they don\'t need replacing, just reuse them.
The correct torque for this is 34-36 lb/ft, but I always just do them as tight as I can, you won\'t distort the bush!
Rgds
Alan
 
GaryB
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#3 Post by GaryB »

Nyloc nuts should be replaced, but does anyone ever?  I re-used most of mine when I rebuilt my mk1, but I used a drop of Loctite on the (cleaned) threads \"just in case\".
Mike Stevens
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#4 Post by Mike Stevens »

Mary,
In 30+ years of Big Triumph motoring, I don\'t think I\'ve ever replaced a Nyloc.  Of course, I wouldn\'t fit one that I could spin on by hand.
Alan is right, when you do these up, they have a metal stop that gives a defined \'crush\' to the bushes, (I\'m assuming these are the domed ones onto the chassis).  Under the nut is a large washer that buts against a plain shank on the drag strut.  This is what you tighten against, not the bushes.
I assume you are fitting poly-bush types?  They seem to stay harder for longer than the originals, and are probably better than after-market \'originals\' anyway.
HTH,
Cheers, Mike.<edited><editID>Mike Stevens</editID><editDate>39135.5477777778</editDate></edited>
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Mary
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#5 Post by Mary »

Thanks Guys!
I am really glad to hear that I can re-use the nyloc nuts. All are in good condition (threads are good and I can\'t spin them by hand). I&nbsp;bought some Loctite last night&nbsp;for extra insurance. Mike- I&nbsp;am indeed using&nbsp;poly bushes (red). I have the whole kit but will have to get some help with the rest as I am not strong enough to do them all.
I am hopeful that&nbsp;replacing&nbsp;strut bushes will stop the&nbsp;shudder that I experience above 45mph while turning right (one of the bushes on the right strut was different than the rest- smaller circumference, smaller inner diameter, and thinner). The car feels like it is bouncing through the turn instead of gliding.&nbsp;&nbsp;My mechanic says everything else looks OK so I\'ll see if this easy fix does the trick.
My niece and I are going to put everything back together tonight so we can be ready for a club event on Saturday.
Again, thanks for your help!
Mary
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Mary
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#6 Post by Mary »

Hello All!
My niece and I were able to get the car back together. I have one piece of advice though: don\'t get distracted after the Loctite is applied and the nut has been tightened part of the way down. This is especially important if the nut has dodgy edges that make stripping it with a socket&nbsp;really easy. I did get a really nice set of deep-offset wrenches out of it though.
The car ran beautifully. I haven\'t had it out in about 2 years so was pleased when my 50 mile round-trip went trouble free. The shudder in the front is gone. It is much nicer to drive when I\'m not worrying about the front wheels falling off!
Thanks for all of your advice!
Mary
Mike Stevens
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#7 Post by Mike Stevens »

Hi Mary,
Well, it\'s good news that it all went OK.&nbsp; The thing I find when replacing those bushes (without removing the drag strut) is that when the car is supported and the wheels are hanging, the angle of the bit inside the chassis can sometimes make getting a socket on the nut difficult.
It\'s always nice when you diagnose some problem, change a part and it\'s all fixed!
Cheers, Mike.
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David Withers
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#8 Post by David Withers »

The warning from Mary not to get distracted once you have started to assemble Loctited components is very good advice.
There\'s no problem with a delay <U>before</U> you put the parts together but once the air has been excluded you need to finish assembling within around 10 minutes for most grades.
The other thing to remember is not to try re-torqueing&nbsp;after this time&nbsp;as it will break the bond.&nbsp; That wouldn\'t matter&nbsp;in Mary\'s&nbsp;\"extra insurance\" case&nbsp;of course, but could be important if you are relying on a full-strength Loctite bond in a critical situation.
That\'s with ferrous components.&nbsp; If one or both of the components contains copper, you could be talking seconds rather than minutes!
I\'ll take off my anorak now!
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David Withers
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#9 Post by David Withers »

I\'ll just add that one of the advantages of Nyloc over, say, Philidas is that the nylon ring not only locks the nut but does a fair job of sealing&nbsp;against water/salt ingress&nbsp;as&nbsp;well.&nbsp; I\'ve re-used Nyloc nuts&nbsp;many times but replacement with new&nbsp;has to be&nbsp;the better option because they tend to&nbsp;lose their sealing capabilities when re-used.
Using Loctite, as Mary has, not only locks the nuts but seals the threads as well.&nbsp; In fact the Loctite becomes a locking/sealing plastic insert just like the&nbsp;ring in \'Nylok\' nuts!&nbsp;
I&nbsp;often re-use the three Nyloc nuts&nbsp;that hold down the rocker cover but my mind is taken back several years to when the&nbsp;fasteners holding the rocker cover on my daughter\'s Peugeot&nbsp;worked&nbsp;loose and the engine oil was lost, resulting in almost £1000-worth of damage.
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Biffo
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#10 Post by Biffo »

I\'m humbled by the fact&nbsp;you are&nbsp;so hands on with your car Mary - about the most my wife will do is tell me if my indicators and brake lights are working ! And really nice your getting your niece involved too. My oldest daughter (9) is not so keen, but my youngest (4) loves \"helping\" !
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