Rust removal with paint protection

[Peter Douglas W]

I have discovered some evidence of rust coming out of the seams in the boot lid.

Before it gets too bad I would like to spray (or whatever) some magic fluid into the seams to stop this and neutralise the rust. As it is a blind area at the same time protect the metal for the future. Should any of this stuff come out of the seams it must be paintable.
Does this magic fluid exist. I have several types of rust removers and protectors but not all in one.

[Addiston]

I've had very god results with Bilt Hamber (www.bilthamber.com) 'Deox Gel' on any exposed suraface rusting. For the gel, I brush it, cling film it for 24 hours and then wipe off with a damp cloth. It doesn't mark paint at all and leaves a nice, stable grey metal for overpainting, with all signs of rust gone.

The gel wouldnt work inside seam, but they also do Deox C, which is the same in liquid form. This, or the Hydrate 80 which is a Rust converter is probably a very good bet. 'Practical calssics' certainly like its products and my experience is certainly very good. For best results it might be best put in with a compressor powered gun to really atomise the spray for maximum contact. I can also recommend their cavity wax. Not cheap, but apparently very effective.

Regards

[Peter Douglas W]

I am trying to think how can I get the fluid (it must be a fluid bcause of the crevises) onto the affected area. Don't forget you cannot see anything. On my other Triumph I used Dinatrol then Wax Oil because it creeps even upwards. The problem with wax oil is you cannot paint it after wards.

[Alec]

Hello Peter,

the problem with chemical rust removers is they need a thorough flushing with water to clean the area which I suspect would be impossible.

I think both Waxoil and Dinitrol claims some measure of rust neutralisation which in the are you mention would probably be sufficient. I suggest cleaning the exterior of the boot lid around the flanges and the support frame then seam sealing with a thin coat of brushable seam sealer. Once that has gone off then spray in the Waxoil etc. You will need to drill some holes so as to get full coverage of the box section etc?

Alec

[Peter Douglas W]

There is one hole put in by the blokes the did the Ziebart underseal in those days. I suspect the lid has been repaired since then and no protection has been given.

To explain it a bit better. When you have the boot lid open and you are standing behind the car looking forwards it is the seam running down the left hand side and the rust is appearing from behind the lower part of the seam and spreading leftwards. Clear ?????????????

[englishbull]

Only other solution is to peel back the seams and rustproof..............effective but costly........ ..................

[David Withers]

If I am visualising it correctly, it seems (seams?) that the rust needs stabilising to become inactive rather than being chemically converted with phosphoric acid, Deox-C or the like.

If it was a surface to be painted you would need to remove the rust or at least convert it into an inactive form, but in this case I think the best bet is to introduce a waxy fluid having a very low viscosity which will thicken up when in place and prevent ingress of the air and moisture that's needed for the rust to multiply.

The fluid could be Waxoyl, Dinitrol or Shell Ensis (excellent stuff if still available) and might be best applied in atomised form rather than by brush or oil can, though flooding the area should be even better if it can be done. Any excess can easily be wiped off with white spirit so as not to interfere with painting.

The seam sealer suggested by Alec could be applied along the edge after treating, to help seal against moisture ingress and to give the paint something to adhere to along the edge of the seam.

[Alec]

Hello David,

I would think it is very difficult to ensure a clean enough surface for painting after aplication of a wax based treatment as I would expect it creep even after a few weeks time? White spirit alone would not be sufficient and panel wipe should be used after. That is why I would seal the seam prior to applying the treatment. Obviously any visible surface rust would need to be removed first (3M's strip and clean being excellent for this giving a surface finish ideal for primer.).

I agree with your comment about atomisation, I think it would be virtually impossible to treat a boot lid properly without a pressure lance which would ensure coverage of the very tight gap near the lid edges.

Alec

[CAR]

Any cavity wax warmed (in the tin) in hot water will have a low viscosity without thinning. The boot lid is a removable panel, which if laid upright on its side would allow any of its 4 ends to become the bottom and the natural welling area for whatever treatment you are using, getting the treatment into the tight area at the lid edges quite easily.

Colin.

[Addiston]

Peter,

You rightly questioned how on eart you get rust convertwer into the area affected. I lost a bootlid on the brown car due to the same problem being too far advanced when I bought the car.

I bought one of these http://rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=405093&p_n=405093, although if you shop around you can get the same model cheaper. You do need a fairly strong output on the compressor, but when cavity waxing the car, it created such a fine mist that it was pleasingly seen drifing from lots of places I'd never considered possible. Unless you remove the bootlid and flood the affected end, this probably the best option for coverage, particularly if repreated a couple of times.

I've checked the instructions for the Hydrate 80 rust converter, which is suitable for application by spray (from a cavity wax gun with a long lance, I suggest in this case) and doesn't need washed off after treatment, which is impossible with the inside of the boot lid.

Regards