front strut refurb.

[valencia]

Have any of you replaced your front strut inserts as opposed to the just installing a complete unit ?
I am having a problem screwing the collar down far enough to hold the insert in place. Even when the collar goes below the top of the tube and becomes tighter the insert still moves about. Does anyone ever use something like a packing washer under the collar or should I just keep trying to turn it round a bit more? You know how it is, you don't want to use too much force and ruin it altogether. Is there a special tool to turn the collar as well ?
Thanks everyone,
Michael Hasleden.

[Alan Chatterton]

Yes, I had this when I did front shocks on my estate a couple of years ago. With the collar fully down, the insert still moved up and down my about 10mm.

I put a spacer in the bottom of the housing, put the insert ontop of it, then put the collar on........ no problems.

Note, when you've done this, don't forget to tap in the crimp to hold the collar in place. If you look at the collar, there is a small cheese shaped segment on the side, you need to punch the housing into this segment to hold the collar in place. If you don't, it will undo and then you get a knock fro the suspension. ask me how I know this, go on.... ask me!!

The spacer I used was 3 thick washers, about 1 inch diameter, got them from my local autofactors.

[valencia]

Thanks Alan, if it worked for you I'm sure it will work for me. Another job done.
Mike Hasleden

[CAR]

I don't know if it's recommended in the workshop manual, but with similar struts on a BMW E3 the workshop manual recommendation is to add a little monograde oil 20 weight say to the strut tube before installing the insert. The idea is that the oil bridges the air gap between insert and strut outer tube to allow effective cooling of the insert in use.
I will probably do this when rebuilding the ones I have at home......once I can undo the ring at the top to remove the old insert. The person who built them up obviously knew about the 'tap in' and really hammered it home

Colin.

[CAR]

I don't know if it's recommended in the workshop manual, but with similar struts on a BMW E3 the workshop manual recommendation is to add a little monograde oil 20 weight say to the strut tube before installing the insert. The idea is that the oil bridges the air gap between insert and strut outer tube to allow effective cooling of the insert in use.
I will probably do this when rebuilding the ones I have at home......once I can undo the ring at the top to remove the old insert. The person who built them up obviously knew about the 'tap in' and really hammered it home

Colin.

[CAR]

Sorry about the double posting....impatience!

Do new strut inserts come with a new collar, if all else fails can I drill/smash the old collar to pieces to remove it, but carefully so as not to damage the strut housing?

Colin

[Alan Chatterton]

usually, new shocks come with a new collar..... but its a very hefty piece of steel........... you won't smash it!

The tab should only be a small knock in, and its very thin steel, so it should be easy to bend it back over.......... failing that, second hand tube?

[CAR]

In fairness I have two spare sets at least, so I may give up on that and start on another.

[Alan Chatterton]

While you are doing that, don't forget to dig out a pair of decent strut tops!!!!

[sorbs]

Remember to replace the PTFE coated washers in the top mounts too if they look worn - they act as the swivel bearing for the struts.

My old struts were well and truly shot but when I priced up the cost of buying all the components for a re-furb, it was almost as cheap to get exchange assemblies from Chris Witor.