New heating pipe olive

[simon.williams]

Hello,

I have a nice new stainless steel heater pipe, but how does this « olive » work. Do I just tighten the nut over it and it forms a watertight joint, or does it need soldering (which I am very bad at)!

Nice & shiny though!

I can confirm the old one did not yield easily - manifold out and then hacksawed pipe off near the water pump before I could undo the nut.

[johnnydog]

It's a simple compression fitting.
However, besides the stainless return pipe, I would suggest you get these as well from CW which form part of the fittings to the water pump housing - and they look better than the original steel versions!

This is the stainless return pipe and fittings on my S.

[johnnydog]

Just in addition to the above - when you do get the other pieces and get round to fitting them, do a dry fit first (without compressing the olive!) as you may need to trim down the length of the return pipe at the water pump end.

[simon.williams]

Thank you Johnny

[johnfrancis898]

Hi Simon

I have just fitted this pipe to my 2500TC engine which I am rebuilding. I got it from Chris. You will more than likely need to cut it down slightly. It’s not a fault as such but as you will probably find out, the engine for our cars is fitted to a few other models such as the TR range so I think it was designed with this in mind. I have fitted a new aluminium water pump body and fitted a new stainless steel pipe connector and nut & olive as Johnnydog describes. Doing up the nut and olive is exactly the same as a compression fitting as used on brass pipe fittings for copper tube in general plumbing. You can use some jointing compound or sealant on the olive if required and the general rule is to tighten by hand and then a 1/4 turn with a spanner. You don’t have to ‘over cook it’

Good luck!

John

[simon.williams]

Thanks John will check before I tighten anything.

[Forkie]

This was one of my more successful jobs on this car a while back - i did as has been suggested - brought the pipe and all the fittings at both ends, so much easier when all new, and in S.S. Loosely fitted the lot, inserted the olive over the pipe, eased the olive home into it's seat without any additives as they say, finger tightened the lot, when happy just ' nipped the lot up. Never had an issue since. If only all tasks were that simple !!!!
As a p.s. i do not recall having to cut the pipe - but i am sure the initial loose fit should tell you if it needs trimming or not. You should feel a smooth progressive tighten on the olive - as stated it is a compression fit - it should not ' bottom out' before it is semi tight.

[simon.williams]

Hello,

I foolishly put the manifold & injector bodies back on before doing the heater pipe - doh!

Do you know if I need to push the pipe as far as it will go into the housing, before tightening the nut & olive?

Also, on the bulkhead side it looks like I should attach it to the nearest bell housing bolt. Does this sound right before I start undoing things I shouldn’t!

Thank you!

[Alec]

Hello Simon,

yes the pipe needs to go into the adapter as far as possible. That ensures the olive stays in the position shown in the photograph and clamps securely onto the pipe.

That seems to be an after market pipe and does look as though it is designed to attach to the bell housing. (Mine is also after market but attaches to the rearmost manifold stud, as original)

Alec

[simon.williams]

Thanks Alec!