HS6 rebuild kit/ needle option

[Forkie]

So hopefully picking up from where we were with the hijacked post - my jets are the red type, NOT the waxstats. I have one float chamber tag - the front ( im sure the rear seemed weak so removed and stored many years ago) - AUD678F . On stripping the dashpots earlier i have consecutive numbers on the carbs - 2874/5, so i have every reason to believe they are a matched pair. I did notice on this evenings partial strip that the dashpot dampers have NO seal on either one. The carbs DO have the poppet valves fitted.... that was my most interesting find. I know i am aware of it, from years ago, but as the car drove ' as expected in 2008, i took no notice... jet heights - nominal between the pair, hard to judge 1mm lower than the bridge in my opinion, i would say the rear seemed higher than the front.
I need to add, the asumption is that from a few, that the long lay up has possibly caused a settlement/ blockage within the main red jet/s , and thus giving a false fuel flow......false readings.
My thinking is a full carb rebuild, with new red jets rather than ' assuming the old jets are clean ' with carb cleaner.
Any opinions on which kit, as per mentioned ? I did not realise one carb could have so many different kits.

[Alec]

hello Forkie,

in general there are kits for just basic use, gaskets etc and kits for a full overhaul which includes many more items.
The Burlen website (https://burlen.co.uk/) gives a lot of information.

Alec

[Forkie]

Hi Alec, yes i have looked on their site since posting - it was useful, and it did lead me to finding out which kit i require - based on my 'tags' , being the AUD678 carbs. Following on from Johnnydogs' comments though he asked if mine have poppet valves, which on partial strip they do, he commented on solid valves are a better bet, and noticed in Burlens kit they also have poppet valves fitted, so i would be buying like for like. Obviously the picture could be a generic one, so i was waiting for any replies on here before ringing them, to ask if they are indeed poppet valved or can they supply solid ones.
The other point was regarding the needles - not being sure which ones are currently fitted - i feel best replace them as well - the standard ones are BDB as advised CW and Burlens, yet John feels BDM run better. What to do, what to order.....

[Forkie]

Ok so finally had the chance today to ring the guys at Burlens. Really helpfull, nothing was too much trouble, really nice guys. After checking with them what i was getting for my rebuild kit and my issues - i asked if i was getting 'solid' discs as opposed ' poppet valve'versions - i was told ' leave it with me, i will research the cost options and get back to you' . Which they did. So i have on its way a full rebuild kit for both carbs, with solid butterfly discs, and standard BDB x2 needles ( for now) as he explained they are matched, like for like with the jet assemblies, for just over £200 posted. Cant wait to receive, cant wait to fit. Will post up my findings.....

[Forkie]

Finally had the chance to remove the carbs this afternoon. I thought the old stuff was meant to be easy !!!! Was a bit of a fiddle, got one nut and one washer to find in the morning.....i realised i could remove the carbs whilst leaving the accelerator/ kickdown cable assembly in situ - which bouyed my confidence - i really did not want to disturb that. So they are now on the bench ( was easier back in 2008 - my eyes were working then )
My question this time is Burlens have sent bushes, apparently for the spindle to rotate in, so two per carb. I do not have the required equipment to change them. Is that a normal requirement?

[Forkie]

So just to add on to that - on further inspection today - fully stripped the rear carb, a loose ispection of the front one - the spindle that locates the butterfly valve - the same on both - their is minimal movement up and down , but movement nonetheless , of the spindle within the respective housing. The leaflet that came with the rebuild kit re stripping and checking just states ' if excessive movement is noted, new bushes must be fitted'. What is excessive movement? I did notice wear marks ( to the now stripped rear carb spindle) once it was out. Offered the new spindle in - still a tad of play but probably not as much. Are they meant to be a dead tight , no play snug fit? Or is just a tad of play exceptable?

[Forkie]

I have since found out that nominal play i have is normal, to allow expansion when things warm up.
I now have another question regarding spring positions on the HS6 Carb. So- regarding the cam set up that moves the jet - the inboard spring tail, that has a 90 bend, locates on a lug that is part of the body. The other end - does anyone know if that tail is meant to seat Under, or Over the jet link arm ( the arm with the circlip) . I have pictures should anyone need them, as it is hard to explain,i think!!!

[johnnydog]

Does this help?

Taken from this website..
https://www.skandix.de/en/documents/ins ... e/3000688/

[Forkie]

Mmm unfortunately not quite, just cant quite see all the spring tails. I wish mine looked that shiny though!!!! I ask as having stripped one, leaving the other complete as a reference, and with taking plenty of notes and pictures of every step, again for reference, i had real trouble trying to re-seat that inner spring to where it was on removal - the 90 bend to the carb body was obvious - it was the other end. So after several attempts over several evenings i thought about checking the other, yet undisturbed front carb - the tail was in a different place - under the arm, not on top !!! So a bit of headscratching - so they were both different - but which is correct.... assuming both would seat in the same position.... so setting the tail under the arm, then looping a piece of string around the 90, i was able to pull it up through and around, and fit behind the lug... so, it now matches the other carb. So i'm now assuming that spring was not fitted correctly, and wondering if that had any consequence to engine responce..

[Forkie]

Been a bit of a delay as usual but back on it today and a big old massive Victorian Penny dropped big time... Can anyone explain the conseqence of a stuck shut float needle valve..... front carb needle valve some plastic affair with central brass like pin - all free. However - rear carb was an all old school all brass affair - no plastic in sight - assume Original - seized completely solid - no movement whatsoever.....so from that and much reading up the float could not drop, to allow more fuel in when required ( like up an incline) - im trying not to get over excited here but have i finally discovered my issue of lack of power - a seized float needle valve on the rear carb. Really?