Hello there
Car Mk1 2000
I have an oil filter leak so will change the rubber gasket which will I’m sure will sort it however it looks like some oil is also coming out of the bolt hole (old fashioned style oil filter that has a paper internal filter with a cup over the top with a spring loaded bolt running through it)
Is there suppose to be a rubber washer on the bolt? I know there is a rubber washer on the bowl which the bolt runs through which I don’t think you can change but wondering if in general there was a missing rubber bolt washer that I’m missing hence the additional leak?
Thoughts?
Sal
Oil filter leak
Re: Oil filter leak
I really suggest you invest in a canister conversion https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW2525 other suppliers also provide it.
Charles Harrison
Register member 3095
Folkestone
Cherry Red Mk1 2000 Rally Car
Mallard Blue 2.5PI
Sapphire Blue GT6 Mk3
Vermillion Red Spitfire 1500
Pimento Red TR6
Inky Blue VW Passat B5.5
Arctic Blue Jaguar XJ40
Silver Range Rover Vogue SE
Register member 3095
Folkestone
Cherry Red Mk1 2000 Rally Car
Mallard Blue 2.5PI
Sapphire Blue GT6 Mk3
Vermillion Red Spitfire 1500
Pimento Red TR6
Inky Blue VW Passat B5.5
Arctic Blue Jaguar XJ40
Silver Range Rover Vogue SE
Re: Oil filter leak
Thanks Charles, I have looked at this and if my next move does work then I’ll be buying this
Re: Oil filter leak
From memory, there is no rubber washer under the head of the long bolt that secures the original oil filter canister to the block. I can certainly check a spare one for you over the weekend if that would help.
As new paper filters come with the rubber sealing ring, there is no reason not to change it every oil filter change, although I do know people don't, but they become hard and don't then seal effectively if not changed. People also unnecessarily overtighten the securing bolt which also can damage the seal. The seal can also be a slack fit in the groove, which can occasionally lead to the seal being slightly distorted if not fitted carefully, resulting in a leak. On mine, I rotate the canister body against the seal, ensuring it is visually central in the groove before the final nipping up of the central bolt. The canister body can be positioned in the groove quite noticeably to one side, ie not completely central, which usually seals ok, but then if can be fitted 100% centrally, then surely any chance of any leak should be further minimised?
Incidentally, I have never fitted the oil filter adapter to any of my Triumphs in the 40+ years I have had them. On later models, because of the slant of the engine, the chassis rail had to be adapted ( filed down) to accomodate the filter body, which I decided against doing years ago.
After periods of standing, I always churn the engine over for a few seconds with no choke to get the oil pressure up before pulling the choke out, and when they fire, the oil light is extinguished virtually immediately. I haven't any cold start big end rumble on them either!
As new paper filters come with the rubber sealing ring, there is no reason not to change it every oil filter change, although I do know people don't, but they become hard and don't then seal effectively if not changed. People also unnecessarily overtighten the securing bolt which also can damage the seal. The seal can also be a slack fit in the groove, which can occasionally lead to the seal being slightly distorted if not fitted carefully, resulting in a leak. On mine, I rotate the canister body against the seal, ensuring it is visually central in the groove before the final nipping up of the central bolt. The canister body can be positioned in the groove quite noticeably to one side, ie not completely central, which usually seals ok, but then if can be fitted 100% centrally, then surely any chance of any leak should be further minimised?
Incidentally, I have never fitted the oil filter adapter to any of my Triumphs in the 40+ years I have had them. On later models, because of the slant of the engine, the chassis rail had to be adapted ( filed down) to accomodate the filter body, which I decided against doing years ago.
After periods of standing, I always churn the engine over for a few seconds with no choke to get the oil pressure up before pulling the choke out, and when they fire, the oil light is extinguished virtually immediately. I haven't any cold start big end rumble on them either!
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
-
- Senior Member
- Posts:940
- Joined:Fri Mar 19, 2004 3:50 pm
- Location:United Kingdom
Re: Oil filter leak
I once had a MK 1 that had two rings. The first one was rock hard and at first difficult to spot, and to dig out. A previous owner appeared not to have noticed this and just popped in another on top.
I recommend fitting a spin-on conversion. You can fit a longer canister, which is easier to grip, and it can be angled forwards a bit for easier access. Older conversions require careful measurement and selection of the central 0-ring to ensure equal pressure on the larger and smaller rings. Also as they age the degree of compression can vary, creating an internal leakage.
The more recent conversions have a spring-loaded plate inside which automatically evens the pressure, so are much easier to fit and don't leak.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests