Oil filter leak

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Sal
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Oil filter leak

#1 Post by Sal » Tue Nov 16, 2021 8:34 pm

Hello there

Car Mk1 2000

I have an oil filter leak so will change the rubber gasket which will I’m sure will sort it however it looks like some oil is also coming out of the bolt hole (old fashioned style oil filter that has a paper internal filter with a cup over the top with a spring loaded bolt running through it)

Is there suppose to be a rubber washer on the bolt? I know there is a rubber washer on the bowl which the bolt runs through which I don’t think you can change but wondering if in general there was a missing rubber bolt washer that I’m missing hence the additional leak?

Thoughts?
Sal

Charles H
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Re: Oil filter leak

#2 Post by Charles H » Wed Nov 17, 2021 11:43 am

I really suggest you invest in a canister conversion https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW2525 other suppliers also provide it.
Charles Harrison
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Sal
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Re: Oil filter leak

#3 Post by Sal » Fri Nov 19, 2021 5:37 am

Thanks Charles, I have looked at this and if my next move does work then I’ll be buying this

johnnydog
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Re: Oil filter leak

#4 Post by johnnydog » Fri Nov 19, 2021 12:05 pm

From memory, there is no rubber washer under the head of the long bolt that secures the original oil filter canister to the block. I can certainly check a spare one for you over the weekend if that would help.
As new paper filters come with the rubber sealing ring, there is no reason not to change it every oil filter change, although I do know people don't, but they become hard and don't then seal effectively if not changed. People also unnecessarily overtighten the securing bolt which also can damage the seal. The seal can also be a slack fit in the groove, which can occasionally lead to the seal being slightly distorted if not fitted carefully, resulting in a leak. On mine, I rotate the canister body against the seal, ensuring it is visually central in the groove before the final nipping up of the central bolt. The canister body can be positioned in the groove quite noticeably to one side, ie not completely central, which usually seals ok, but then if can be fitted 100% centrally, then surely any chance of any leak should be further minimised?
Incidentally, I have never fitted the oil filter adapter to any of my Triumphs in the 40+ years I have had them. On later models, because of the slant of the engine, the chassis rail had to be adapted ( filed down) to accomodate the filter body, which I decided against doing years ago.
After periods of standing, I always churn the engine over for a few seconds with no choke to get the oil pressure up before pulling the choke out, and when they fire, the oil light is extinguished virtually immediately. I haven't any cold start big end rumble on them either!
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1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
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Clifford Pope
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Re: Oil filter leak

#5 Post by Clifford Pope » Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:26 pm

johnnydog wrote:
Fri Nov 19, 2021 12:05 pm

As new paper filters come with the rubber sealing ring, there is no reason not to change it every oil filter change, although I do know people don't, but they become hard and don't then seal effectively if not changed.
I once had a MK 1 that had two rings. The first one was rock hard and at first difficult to spot, and to dig out. A previous owner appeared not to have noticed this and just popped in another on top.
I recommend fitting a spin-on conversion. You can fit a longer canister, which is easier to grip, and it can be angled forwards a bit for easier access. Older conversions require careful measurement and selection of the central 0-ring to ensure equal pressure on the larger and smaller rings. Also as they age the degree of compression can vary, creating an internal leakage.
The more recent conversions have a spring-loaded plate inside which automatically evens the pressure, so are much easier to fit and don't leak.

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