Sump removal in car

[Jake]

Hi All, I have a rather leaky sump gasket on my 2.5 Mk2 and wanted to change it.
Now I seem to recall "someone" telling me this is possible with the engine in the car....
If so how do I go about it?
Many thanks in advance Jake.

[Charles H]

Yes it can be done in the car. Once all the fixings are removed, the sump needs to turn through 90 degrees to remove. It is easier with the non power steering cars. Have you tried just nipping up the fixings first? I find this usually has a good result.

[SimonR]

Hi - read Charles H's reply with great interest as I too am about to drop the sump on my 2500s.
Can more clearance be obtained by raising the engine on an engine support beam?
I have used method before on my Dolomites and a TR7 with no problems.
Cheers
Simon

[herald1360]

This is my job for this weekend! The gasget is leaking and the front sealing block threads are stripped for one of the bolts. I have a new steel replacment from TRGB.
I have dropped the sump before, it not too bad a job!

[Mike Stevens]

The normal way is to drop the front suspension off to give clearance. Charles's method probably doesn't require this but will give less access - but it depends on where you need to get to.

Cheers,
Mike.

[johnconradlee]

Having dropped the sump off the other day on my car I dropped the steering cross member, undid the drag struts at the bushed end which meant I could get the steering cross member down just far enough to get the sump out. I didn't see turning it 90 degrees as a removal option, possibly because I had the axle stands quite far forward.

[Jake]

Well, just to let you know. I ended up removing the front cross member as described by Mike and John above. I couldn't turn the sump 90 degrees with the downpipe attached. None the less the cross member was not too bad to "remove" as described by John, I also had to unbolt the rack from the cross member and drop the steering column out! Left the cross member "hanging down" and likewise the rack still attached to the track rod ends. Had to undo the Power steering pump as well to get aenough free play but apart for that no problem... Seriously not as bad as it sounds.
Interestingly the issue with the leak was the front sealing block as mentioned by "Herald 1360" only on mine the 2 end bolts through the front conversion plates were missing altogether! I notice there are 2 front conversion plate gaskets supplied in a bottom end gasket set. A beige one and a grey one, the grey one appears to be thicker than the other?

When you look the Beige gasket doesn't have the holes punched in it for the those bolts but the grey one does? Why is that?
Anyway my engine was fitted with a beige gasket, so I poked the holes through with a drill by hand and refitted the sealing block with the wooden wedges (these weren't fitted but the void was full of silicon sealer) then put it all back together.
Been out for "urgent essential" purchase in the car and all appears fine.

[herald1360]

I change my sump gasget on Saturday
To get the sump off I had to drop the crossmember by about half and inch, remove the two lowest bell housing bolts including the clutch slave cylinder. Removeed the dipstich and turned the crank untill i could pull the sump down.
I replaced the front sealing block as one of the sump attachment holes the threads had stripped, causing an oil leak. I replaced with a steel sealing block from TRGB, excellent quality and fit.
I cleaned the sump of all the silvery gunge in the bottom, fited new gasget and refitted.
I used Locktite thread sealer on all sump bolts, putting plenty on from and rear bolts which go into the crankcase.

hope this helps someone