difficulty starting when warm

Engine Oily Bits, Ignition, Fuelling, Cooling, Exhaust, etc.
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tomd
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difficulty starting when warm

#1 Post by tomd » Sun Jul 14, 2013 4:11 pm

I am having some difficulties with my 2500S starting when the engine is hot. Typically at a motorway service station. After opening the bonnet and waiting about 20 mins it starts again. I would appreciate any suggestions what might be causing this and how to solve the problem.
Tom
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Lloydpiestate
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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#2 Post by Lloydpiestate » Sun Jul 14, 2013 4:43 pm

hi tom,

sounds like the age old problem of fuel evaporation, ive always had problems with the hs6 carbs over the years for some reason, although it could be a mulitude of electrical items also breaking down under heat.

are the heat shields ok / still in place ?

is the petrol pump diaphragm ok ?

lloyd

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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#3 Post by radders » Sun Jul 14, 2013 9:06 pm

I would suggest fuel evaporation in the current climate. On opening the bonnet yesterday after a run to let some heat out, I found the inline fuel filter completely empty.

Failing that, another sign of poor hot starting is the coil.
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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#4 Post by Clifford Pope » Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:10 am

Yes to both of those.

Does the fuel pipe run close to the engine block? The more metal clips it has, the better the heat transfer. Might be worth fitting a heat shield under the fuel filter.

As my experiment showed, a lot of heat is transfered to a block-mounted coil. Modern coils seem to run hotter anyway, and be more susceptible to breaking down when over-heated. Usually the oldest scruffiest coil in the box works best.

If you suspect starting is going to be hard on a hot day you could always prime the fuel pump first.
Mine always needs priming after a few days' standing anyway, even though it has new valves and diaphram.

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Dave B
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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#5 Post by Dave B » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:08 am

The cause of that problem on both my Triumphs was the rotor arm tracking to earth when the weather/engine got really hot. When the engine cooled a little it started ok, only to stop again after a short run. A new style 'red' rotor arm for each car has sorted that problem.
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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#6 Post by johnnydog » Wed Aug 28, 2013 3:58 pm

I have a 2500S and fuel evaporation has never really been an issue. In my experience fuel evaporisation seems to affect Mk1's more with Strombergs. I would definitely agree with Dave B's comments about the rotor arm and bin the old one specially if it is the riveted type. The problem may also be related to the coil breaking down when hot. The symptoms you describe ( including the 20 mins wait) are characteristic of rotor arm and coil issues. Incidentally, have you felt the side of the coil when this occurs? It will be extremely hot - so hot that you won't be able to keep your hand on it, which can lead to coil failure when hot, and when it cools down again (after the 20 min period) all will be well again until it gets hot.
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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#7 Post by TedTaylor » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:02 pm

These are precisely the symptoms that I had on my old Mk2 PI which were caused by the coil overheating. Reason for the overheating coil I found to be the replacement ballast resistor fitted by the previous owner and which were in part some of the problems he had which led to him getting rid of the car cheap (the other was a stupid fault due to him messing with the MU which cost me nothing to fix).

The ballast resistor was a 3 ohm type - when changed for a higher second hand Triumph one (7 ohm?) the overheating coil problem disappeared.

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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#8 Post by johnnydog » Fri Aug 30, 2013 12:12 am

Isn't the ballast resistor on the 2500S built into the wiring loom Ted? Its certainly not the separate unit as on earlier cars.
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CAR
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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#9 Post by CAR » Fri Aug 30, 2013 7:00 am

Its a white cable with pink tracer in an S loom I think John.
Like you I have never suffered from fuel evaporation with the estate, I did once have a sticking float needle , but that cleared with a (hefty) tap on the float chamber :lol:

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Re: difficulty starting when warm

#10 Post by TedTaylor » Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:25 am

johnnydog wrote:Isn't the ballast resistor on the 2500S built into the wiring loom Ted? Its certainly not the separate unit as on earlier cars.
Yes you are correct - though that wire can fail and lead ( :roll: ) to problems. Had it happen to a Mk4(?) Cortina and the only very temporary fix to get me home 10 miles away was to use a standard length of wire ....... mind you the coil got rather hot :shock:

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