difficulty starting when warm
I am having some difficulties with my 2500S starting when the engine is hot. Typically at a motorway service station. After opening the bonnet and waiting about 20 mins it starts again. I would appreciate any suggestions what might be causing this and how to solve the problem.
Tom
Tom
Mk1 2000 Automatic LHD (1966)
2500S (1977)
Herald 1200 (1969)
2500S (1977)
Herald 1200 (1969)
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- Senior Member
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Re: difficulty starting when warm
hi tom,
sounds like the age old problem of fuel evaporation, ive always had problems with the hs6 carbs over the years for some reason, although it could be a mulitude of electrical items also breaking down under heat.
are the heat shields ok / still in place ?
is the petrol pump diaphragm ok ?
lloyd
sounds like the age old problem of fuel evaporation, ive always had problems with the hs6 carbs over the years for some reason, although it could be a mulitude of electrical items also breaking down under heat.
are the heat shields ok / still in place ?
is the petrol pump diaphragm ok ?
lloyd
Re: difficulty starting when warm
I would suggest fuel evaporation in the current climate. On opening the bonnet yesterday after a run to let some heat out, I found the inline fuel filter completely empty.
Failing that, another sign of poor hot starting is the coil.
Failing that, another sign of poor hot starting is the coil.
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- Senior Member
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Re: difficulty starting when warm
Yes to both of those.
Does the fuel pipe run close to the engine block? The more metal clips it has, the better the heat transfer. Might be worth fitting a heat shield under the fuel filter.
As my experiment showed, a lot of heat is transfered to a block-mounted coil. Modern coils seem to run hotter anyway, and be more susceptible to breaking down when over-heated. Usually the oldest scruffiest coil in the box works best.
If you suspect starting is going to be hard on a hot day you could always prime the fuel pump first.
Mine always needs priming after a few days' standing anyway, even though it has new valves and diaphram.
Does the fuel pipe run close to the engine block? The more metal clips it has, the better the heat transfer. Might be worth fitting a heat shield under the fuel filter.
As my experiment showed, a lot of heat is transfered to a block-mounted coil. Modern coils seem to run hotter anyway, and be more susceptible to breaking down when over-heated. Usually the oldest scruffiest coil in the box works best.
If you suspect starting is going to be hard on a hot day you could always prime the fuel pump first.
Mine always needs priming after a few days' standing anyway, even though it has new valves and diaphram.
- Dave B
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Re: difficulty starting when warm
The cause of that problem on both my Triumphs was the rotor arm tracking to earth when the weather/engine got really hot. When the engine cooled a little it started ok, only to stop again after a short run. A new style 'red' rotor arm for each car has sorted that problem.
Club Member 2035
1970 2500 Mk2 in pimento red[/col
Toyota Avensis T4 Tourer
1970 2500 Mk2 in pimento red[/col
Toyota Avensis T4 Tourer
Re: difficulty starting when warm
I have a 2500S and fuel evaporation has never really been an issue. In my experience fuel evaporisation seems to affect Mk1's more with Strombergs. I would definitely agree with Dave B's comments about the rotor arm and bin the old one specially if it is the riveted type. The problem may also be related to the coil breaking down when hot. The symptoms you describe ( including the 20 mins wait) are characteristic of rotor arm and coil issues. Incidentally, have you felt the side of the coil when this occurs? It will be extremely hot - so hot that you won't be able to keep your hand on it, which can lead to coil failure when hot, and when it cools down again (after the 20 min period) all will be well again until it gets hot.
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
- TedTaylor
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- Location:Forest of Dean (Gloucestershire)
Re: difficulty starting when warm
These are precisely the symptoms that I had on my old Mk2 PI which were caused by the coil overheating. Reason for the overheating coil I found to be the replacement ballast resistor fitted by the previous owner and which were in part some of the problems he had which led to him getting rid of the car cheap (the other was a stupid fault due to him messing with the MU which cost me nothing to fix).
The ballast resistor was a 3 ohm type - when changed for a higher second hand Triumph one (7 ohm?) the overheating coil problem disappeared.
Ted
The ballast resistor was a 3 ohm type - when changed for a higher second hand Triumph one (7 ohm?) the overheating coil problem disappeared.
Ted
Member 4473 1990
1964 2000 period rally look alike AFH 849B
Morris 1800 London-Sydney/Monte/WCR NAM 616G
Mk1 PI Estate SCG 115G
2500 Estate WDE 76K RBRR 2014
1964 2000 period rally look alike AFH 849B
Morris 1800 London-Sydney/Monte/WCR NAM 616G
Mk1 PI Estate SCG 115G
2500 Estate WDE 76K RBRR 2014
Re: difficulty starting when warm
Isn't the ballast resistor on the 2500S built into the wiring loom Ted? Its certainly not the separate unit as on earlier cars.
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
Re: difficulty starting when warm
Its a white cable with pink tracer in an S loom I think John.
Like you I have never suffered from fuel evaporation with the estate, I did once have a sticking float needle , but that cleared with a (hefty) tap on the float chamber
Colin
Like you I have never suffered from fuel evaporation with the estate, I did once have a sticking float needle , but that cleared with a (hefty) tap on the float chamber
Colin
Colin and Amanda Radford
Register Show Organisers and Directors
'75'N' 2500S CARMINE ESTATE France easter'09, RBRR'10,'12. TEAM 48 RBRR'16 'HOE'
'71'J' 2.5PI VALENCIA SALOON France easter'10, RBRR'14 'FRanK'
'69'G' VALENCIA SALOON c/w BMW 2.5 24valve and 5spd box 'JO'
Register Show Organisers and Directors
'75'N' 2500S CARMINE ESTATE France easter'09, RBRR'10,'12. TEAM 48 RBRR'16 'HOE'
'71'J' 2.5PI VALENCIA SALOON France easter'10, RBRR'14 'FRanK'
'69'G' VALENCIA SALOON c/w BMW 2.5 24valve and 5spd box 'JO'
- TedTaylor
- Senior Member
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- Joined:Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:27 pm
- Location:Forest of Dean (Gloucestershire)
Re: difficulty starting when warm
Yes you are correct - though that wire can fail and lead ( ) to problems. Had it happen to a Mk4(?) Cortina and the only very temporary fix to get me home 10 miles away was to use a standard length of wire ....... mind you the coil got rather hotjohnnydog wrote:Isn't the ballast resistor on the 2500S built into the wiring loom Ted? Its certainly not the separate unit as on earlier cars.
Ted
Member 4473 1990
1964 2000 period rally look alike AFH 849B
Morris 1800 London-Sydney/Monte/WCR NAM 616G
Mk1 PI Estate SCG 115G
2500 Estate WDE 76K RBRR 2014
1964 2000 period rally look alike AFH 849B
Morris 1800 London-Sydney/Monte/WCR NAM 616G
Mk1 PI Estate SCG 115G
2500 Estate WDE 76K RBRR 2014
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