Clutch sticking when releasing pedal to engage gear

[Matrix]

Hi all,
I have noticed the following behavior. The clutch is pressed normally without issue to let me change gear, and when i release the pedal, at the point where the disc is engaged it sticks for a while.
This does not happen when i start the car, but after a few miles.
The other day i had it parked with the engine on and pressed the pedal 40 times and did not stick.
The next day i went for a ride and had no issue then went to the national road, and then when i returned to the city, during the last 2 miles it started again the 'sticking' behavior.
I had to move it with my hands in order to park it in my garage as the sticking issue makes the car to engage abruptly, and jumps forwardly uncontrollably and could crash on the wall....
It sticks only when i release the pedal to engage the gear.
Does anyone know what it could be wrong ?

[Firewatcher]

Interesting one, but my first guess would be a hydraulic issue, most likely the master cylinder. If the pressure takes a few seconds to release when you lift your foot off the pedal, it could give the symptoms you describe. Doesn't sound like there is much wrong with the mechanical components, but a broken spring or weak relief washer in the master cylinder might well be the answer, as that might intermittently prevent or delay the fluid returning to the reservoir and hence releasing the clutch pressure plate.
Now you see me now you don't faults are always a problem to pin down, and sometimes take a long time before they finally become permanent and easy to find. I can't think of a definite check you could do to verify the pressure theory and it might be easier just to service the master cylinder, which at least rules that out without too much trouble.
Pete

[Charles H]

Definitely go for the hydraulics first. They are the easy bit. The other possibility (and I have had this before) is the release carrier not sliding on the nose piece of the gearbox smoothly and sticking. That unfortunately is a gearbox out job, so fingers crossed that the hydraulics sort it.

[Clifford Pope]

The other possibility (and I have had this before) is the release carrier not sliding on the nose piece of the gearbox smoothly and sticking.

I've had that. I replaced the clutch plate, and then it started. I suppose a new plate, new thickness, so the bite point moved.
It seems to be a temporamental component. On another car it had clearly been assembled from different cars not necessarily 2000, and the slight sticking wore the clutch out in a few hundred miles. In the end it needed the flywheel skimming slightly and the release bearing carrier machining so it didn't run out of clearance at the end of it's range. Also the extension sleeve needed reducing in length a fraction.

[Matrix]

Interesting one, but my first guess would be a hydraulic issue, most likely the master cylinder. If the pressure takes a few seconds to release when you lift your foot off the pedal, it could give the symptoms you describe. Doesn't sound like there is much wrong with the mechanical components, but a broken spring or weak relief washer in the master cylinder might well be the answer, as that might intermittently prevent or delay the fluid returning to the reservoir and hence releasing the clutch pressure plate.
Now you see me now you don't faults are always a problem to pin down, and sometimes take a long time before they finally become permanent and easy to find. I can't think of a definite check you could do to verify the pressure theory and it might be easier just to service the master cylinder, which at least rules that out without too much trouble.
Pete

Hi Pete, thanks for responding. I have ordered the slave cylinder, received it, and arranged with my mechanic to recondition the master cylinder and change the slave cylinder just to be on the safe side (maybe this is too much, i should check only the master unit, but i would like to avoid visiting too many times the workshop) . As you described how it works, i understand that it could be the hydraulics. Besides, i had changed clutch plate and disc and the car has only done < 5000 km after the change. I do not believe that the clutch disc failed because of my driving style as i own a Renault for 20 years since new, have done with it 230.000 kms and it still has its original clutch plate and disc from the factory.

[Matrix]

The other possibility (and I have had this before) is the release carrier not sliding on the nose piece of the gearbox smoothly and sticking.

I've had that. I replaced the clutch plate, and then it started. I suppose a new plate, new thickness, so the bite point moved.
It seems to be a temporamental component. On another car it had clearly been assembled from different cars not necessarily 2000, and the slight sticking wore the clutch out in a few hundred miles. In the end it needed the flywheel skimming slightly and the release bearing carrier machining so it didn't run out of clearance at the end of it's range. Also the extension sleeve needed reducing in length a fraction.

I hope that this is not my case, as i had changed several years ago the clutch disc and plate and did not have any issues after the change.

[Matrix]

Definitely go for the hydraulics first. They are the easy bit. The other possibility (and I have had this before) is the release carrier not sliding on the nose piece of the gearbox smoothly and sticking. That unfortunately is a gearbox out job, so fingers crossed that the hydraulics sort it.

Thanks Charles, i have told the mechanic, and told me to start from the Master/Slave cylinder first and if the issue persists then we will check the release bearing, the plate etc.
I hope that it is the hydraulics because it will cost me much money if i recondition the whole system . . .

[Matrix]

Time to share my experience.
At the moment the mechanic pressed the pedal he identified this as an issue of the plate.
He removed the old plate and put the "correct" plate.
By saying correct he told me that both plates are Beck and Borg. But the one i had installed was of inferior quality
(see attached image in the blue background)
The good quality Beck and Borg is shown on the other picture i have attached.
Very difficult to find as he told me.
So i would say that you should avoid if possible to purchase the bad one, and try to find one of a better quality.
The photo will help you identify the good one.
Cheers.
Faidon

ps: The car is transformed. Even the gears engage more sweetly, and the pedal is softer when pressing, like a modern car.

[johnnydog]

Several members I know with poor clutch engagement, combined with an extremely heavy pedal (even after a new clutch assembly) have been using the 'newer' aftermarket Borg and Beck replacement covers. As you say, the aftermarket version is grossly inferior to the old 'original' style. The original Borg and Beck covers can be identified by the 'straight' fingers, whereas the aftermarket Borg and Beck have what I describe as 'dog leg' fingers. The other identification difference is that the original have 'top hat' type pins, whereas the later type have rolled pins.

Over my many years of Triumph ownership, I have never experienced any difficulties in clutch engagement or a heavy pedal, but the cover has always been either a Laycock (which are now difficult to find at an acceptable price) or the original style of Borg and Beck cover. The members cars with problems have always had the later 'aftermarket' type of Borg and Beck cover.
There is a very informative American website titled 'To Laycock or not to Laycock', written by a TR enthusiast outlining his trials and tribulations with later Borg and Beck covers, and his findings which basically state the original type of Borg and Beck offer easy clutch engagement and a light pedal, with the aftermarket being the cause of the many problems.
There is another interesting linked site titled 'Buckeye Triumphs' which also outlines their finding relative to Triumph TR's (but also applicable to the 2000 / 2.5 / 2500) clutch problems.
Definately both are worth a read....

[Matrix]

Thank you very much for all the info. I found them and i will give them a read when i find free time.
I bet i am lucky that my mechanic - who is a Triumph specialist, worked in old Triumph dealership as a mechanic since 80s -
has a good collection of original parts.
Assuming that the original quality is a given, the first thing that will break in the future is my own "disk" in my back and then the disk of the car