Clutch won't bleed out

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murray1967
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Clutch won't bleed out

#1 Post by murray1967 » Sat Jan 22, 2022 5:57 pm

Good day everyone.
I have a 73 2500. But it May have originally been a 2000. I'm having g a problem bleeding the air out the clutch line. In top of that, I've had to install the slave cylinder with spacers. Has anyone else came upon these problems and how was it resolved. Its a new slave and recon rubbers and someone before added the spacers. Oh its also got a new clutch.
I have lifted the slave above the wing and manually bled out the air. I reinstalled it and hey presto, air again.

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johnconradlee
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Re: Clutch won't bleed out

#2 Post by johnconradlee » Sun Jan 23, 2022 12:36 pm

Had the spacers issue before, needed to space it so the piston didn't pop out of the end of the slave which made it impossible to bleed. It might be that the pin in the cross shaft has sheared and it has jammed a bit further round. The lever arm should ideally be vertical or very slightly pointing forwards. Thought this might have been the case on my car but when I took the gearbox and after a lot of comparing parts spotted the new clutch release bearing was slimmer than the original type. If it is a slim clutch release bearing I can't see any problem with just spacing the slave off with washers, provided there is enough room for it to adjust itself back the other way as the clutch wears.
Other thing to check (before you take the gearbox out) is the end float on the crank as a very worn thrust bearing might cause the same symptoms (and can be disastrous if they wear to the point when they fall out!) .
The clutch is a pain to bleed anyway, without the above issues so recommend either pre fill the master and slave on the bench or use an ezee bleed type thing.
John Lee

1966 Triumph 2000 Mk1 "LuLU" (the Lee family Triumph) - various shades of Green and rust - The engine runs, she's alive!!!!

johnnydog
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Re: Clutch won't bleed out

#3 Post by johnnydog » Sun Jan 23, 2022 1:42 pm

The clutch slave cylinder internal bore diameter varied between the 2000 and 2500. The 2000 slave cylinders usually were 7/8" internal bore, whilst the 2.5 / 2500 were 1". The 1" require a greater fluid displacement to operate correctly; some advocate fitting a 7/8" to a 2.5 / 2500 to give better clutch disengagement clearance, but I have never fitted other than the correct cylinder for the particular model and had no clutch related issues.
Some after market clutch kits don't suit the 2000 / 2500 range with apparant engagement difficulties. The recommended set up is a Laycock cover with either a Laycock or a B&B plate, although the B&B plate with a Laycock cover with gives very impressive results with a light progressive pedal. The B&B cover gives a lot heavier pedal and an 'in out' engagement which I personally don't like.
And then this leads to clutch issues found relative to the design of the B& B covers - later clutch covers had a different design relative to the diaphragm springs which resulted in a heavier and less manageable clutch.
There's also talk regarding the correct installation of the gearbox bellhousing bolts - forgetting the starter motor mounting bolts, there are two others are of a larger overall diameter than the rest, and these help to correctly align the gearbox to the engine back plate. I have found that the smaller bolts are sometimes fitted all round the bellousing, and whilst it could be argued that shouldn't make any difference, why have two bolts of a larger diameter if it didn't matter.....
A good informative site regarding clutch woes is an American site Buckeye Triumphs which is all about TR6's, but a lot of it is relevant to our gearboxes and clutches. All the info re the different design of the older and newer B&B clutch covers can be found on it, and the problems / causes of clutch judder and engagement issues.
Well worth a read, especially as original (ie non remanufactured) Laycock clutch covers are now like hens teeth....
Register Member no. 1596

1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
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pete lewis
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Re: Clutch won't bleed out

#4 Post by pete lewis » Sat Mar 19, 2022 3:22 pm

and good advice on the buckeye site for lost travel if the nasty taperd dowel bolt has sheared and all the actuation geomerty is lost
rimmers sell a supposed upgraded dowel bolt and best to use if you have the box off.
this little sod causes a lot of problems as the lever just get later and later as the dowel pin lets go
Pete
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tony
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Re: Clutch won't bleed out

#5 Post by tony » Sat Apr 16, 2022 4:17 am

I had this problem and fixed it with small syringe on the bleeder nipple and actually suck the fluid out. once started I was able to bleed it the normal way.
Tony.
1976 2500 TC. converted to S specs.

Lots of bits

1999 BMW Z3.
2006 BMW 325ti.
Hopefully not needing too many bits.




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Clifford Pope
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Re: Clutch won't bleed out

#6 Post by Clifford Pope » Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:41 am

Regarding problems over clutch engagement and harsh action, I recall ages ago having problems because I had omitted to fit the sleeve location pin when reassembling the release mechanism. This caused the clutch basically to have only two positions - in and out, and caused a kangarooing action when pulling away.
The pin is tiny - about half an inch long and as thick as a matchstick, and simply fell out unnoticed and was lost when I opened the packet. I think the later version is longer and is a roll pin, so stays located better in the sleeve. I've no idea what it does - I can't even find it in the parts diagram in Haynes, but the garage I took the car to because I couldn't face another gearbox-off job said people ofter forgot it.

Charles H
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Re: Clutch won't bleed out

#7 Post by Charles H » Mon Apr 18, 2022 12:58 pm

Think the sleeve and pin applies to Dolomites and Heralds, not the 2000 range of cars.
Charles Harrison
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