What flavour of exhaust?

How do you improve the performance of your beastie?
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Dave B
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Re: What flavour of exhaust?

#41 Post by Dave B » Sat Sep 28, 2013 3:07 am

[/quote]

Hi Dave,

From where did you source your wheels?

Cheers :D[/quote]

I actually got mine from Moss-Europe in Bradford, because the more local to me Manchester branch didn't have the wheelnuts to go with the wheels !
This was about ten or eleven years ago, I paid about £350 for four, they've not gone up that much.

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... dexID=2775
Cheers :D[/quote]

By the way, I use a 15" TR5/6 steel for a spare
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1970 2500 Mk2 in pimento red
1972 2000 Mk2 in sapphire blue
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Malc
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Re: What flavour of exhaust?

#42 Post by Malc » Fri May 08, 2020 8:18 am

Hi guys, I dont suppose anyone has photos of how the brackets work on the CW exhaust?
I have just had delivery of the new sports system, and unsure of the whole bobbin arrangement for the back box.
Many thanks.....

Malc.

Ps. Sorry for appearing stupid, I just like to get things clear in my head before I start a job.

johnnydog
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Re: What flavour of exhaust?

#43 Post by johnnydog » Fri May 08, 2020 9:01 am

The bobbin basically replaces the factory welded hook bracket and rubber mounting hanging from the boot floor. The new exhaust follows a slightly different path at the back than the original as it doesn't have the slight sideways curve after the rear silencer. The bobbin mounts through the boot floor so you will have to drill a hole for it. The bobbin to silencer bracket nut is a nyloc nut and shouldn't be tight as it designed to allow slight expansion of the exhaust when hot. If the rear bobbin nut to silencer was tight there would be no room for expansion. The bobbin to boot floor needs to be tight. With the original setup, any expansion was taken up with the standard rubber hanging mount.
I can put a picture up later today if you are struggling.
It is important too that you get the centre '8' hangers with the 'D' clamp positioned exactly right where it goes through the subframe. It is designed to allow slight expansion movement. If it is touching anywhere, it will resonate through the whole car. It is a bit of a fiddle when you are not used to them because of all the components and the room to work (especially if you have sausage fingers :lol:) but it is a well made system and should fit like a glove.
Everyone has their own preferences but on the joints (not the manifold flange!) I used a red high temp automotive silicone - it makes a good gas tight seal, easy assembly of the joints but more importantly, it allows easy removal if needed at a later date, say for gearbox removal for a clutch replacement for example. Exhaust cement sets like concrete and is a nightmare to seperate later and allows no flexibility of the system.
Another point, use all the twin band type of S/S D clamps - using U clamps will distort / indent the joint slightly causing future problems if you have to seperate any joints. The joints don't need to be mega tight anyway with the silicone - just a good tight nip. You'll know when they are tight enough by the feel...
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1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
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