Clutch fork

Clutch, Gearbox, Overdrive, Propshaft, Differential, Drive Shafts, Hubs.
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Llessur
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Clutch fork

#1 Post by Llessur » Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:02 am

Does anyone have any tips for getting the clutch release fork back onto the cross shaft? Mine is very tight and took a lot of pulling and wiggling to get off - I'm not sure I'll be able to apply the same force pushing as I did pulling.

The Haynes manual does state that the fit can be "very tight" - and mine certainly is.

There are a couple of small nicks on the shaft but nothing too major and I can't see any obvious large burrs which are causing any problems.

Has anyone else had trouble with this?
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
1975 2500 - Murky silver parts car

My blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/

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Alec
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Re: Clutch fork

#2 Post by Alec » Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:05 am

Hello Llesur,

it should be a snug but not overly tight fit. All the ones I have done they have slid easily. It would probably be worth removing the shaft and giving it a clean up with emery strip and also check the bor ein the fork to make it an easier job to assemble.
Do check the taper pin and when screwed home that the head of the pin is not seated on the fork, i.e. it is tight but the taper is not properly seated. I have just done mine and I had to relieve the head on my lathe so that it does not bottom on the fork. If the taper is not tight there is more chance that it will break.

Alec
0465

MK1.5 2.5 P.I.
Jaguar MK 2 (Long term restoration.)
Hymer 564 Motorhome.
Jaguar X Type Estate 2.5

Clifford Pope
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Re: Clutch fork

#3 Post by Clifford Pope » Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:03 am

Get a good quality one from Chris Witor, and don't forget to wire it so it can't come loose.

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Llessur
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Re: Clutch fork

#4 Post by Llessur » Thu Apr 12, 2018 5:04 am

Alec wrote:
Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:05 am
Do check the taper pin and when screwed home that the head of the pin is not seated on the fork, i.e. it is tight but the taper is not properly seated. I have just done mine and I had to relieve the head on my lathe so that it does not bottom on the fork. If the taper is not tight there is more chance that it will break.
Cheers Alec - but finding it a little difficult to enviasge what you mean.

I've given the shaft a bit of a clean up and removed a couple of light scores which seems to have solved the tight-fitting issue. I've also got a replacement pin from Chris Witor so hopefully that should be the right one for the job.

I've temporarily assembled the shaft, fork and pin - the pin does not screw in all the way i.e. there is still a bit of thread showing. I've done a bit of measuring and it seems when assembled the narrow end of the pin protrudes beyond the shaft by a couple of mm. Is that enough?

Here's the whole assembly, with the pin tightened as much as I dare:

Image

And here's one without the fork showing how far I think the pin protrudes beyond the shaft when assembled:

Image
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
1975 2500 - Murky silver parts car

My blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/

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Alec
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Re: Clutch fork

#5 Post by Alec » Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:25 am

Hello Lessur,

that looks fine. I assume the taper in my shaft is a bit on the large size, as mine would screw all the way into the fork and end up with the head tight against the fork. To ensure that the pin was tight in the cross shaft I relieved the head slightly and that worked.

Alec
0465

MK1.5 2.5 P.I.
Jaguar MK 2 (Long term restoration.)
Hymer 564 Motorhome.
Jaguar X Type Estate 2.5

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