Another master and slave query

[delnch]

Good evening, I have removed the master and slave from zeb. With the pan to repair the master and replace the slave as it is jammed solid. The master looks ok and if everything goes ok it should be straight forward enough. So for the questions on rimmers there is no detail on which size slave you are ordering. The one I have received has a shorter length from the flange to the rod, does this matter? Also do I meas The bore size on the internal of the main body of the master? Or do I trust that rimmers slim description is enough

[tony]

Sorry, but what car are we talking about? If you've given Rimmers the right model you SHOULD get the right bits. Bit of a bugger to bleed slave though
Tony.

[johnnydog]

Was the clutch system operating correctly prior to it becoming seized i.e. with the clutch depressed were you able to satisfactorily enrage first / reverse gears?
Also there were 1" bore slaves and 7/8th" bore, depending on your model. If all was well previously, I would fit the same diameter bore - if you had engagement issues, then fitting the 7/8th bore will theoretically improve the clearance, as the same amount of fluid provides greater movement of the pushrod. I would not consider altering the length of the push rod, either by fitting an adjustable one, or welding a section in to make it longer - this is masking another problem. Once you alter from standard, then you start to open a can of worms....
Is the body of the new cylinder the same length as the old one on the bleed nipple end to the flange? If so, it should not really alter the operation of the clutch; it just means the pushrod will sit effectively further in the cylinder. If it shorter, then I would send it back and request a replacement of the correct diamensions, or get a refund and source one from elsewhere. There's certainly not a shortage of them to be had from other suppliers.

[Paul64]

I just rebuilt the master / replaced the slave on my 2.5 with parts from Chris Witor - it's a new 7/8" Land Rover item in effect. I did have to mount the slave the other (rear) side of the plate than the original as firstly in its original place, the piston popped out and jammed the clutch dis-engaged, which was quite annoying at 10.30pm...
The different position moved the piston operating range further into the cylinder and all is now working fine.
For bleeding, I found it easier to leave the cylinder hanging on the flexible pipe with the nipple uppermost and with the bleed nipple nipped closed. With the piston pushed right in to reduce the air pocket to a minimum, fill the reservoir to the brim, wait 10 mins - a quick beer or mug of tea here - and then crack open the bleed nipple a few times, keeping an eye on the reservoir level. Then, when the oil is running clear of air, close the nipple again and mount the cylinder before pumping out the piston with the rod to the actuator arm held in place with the rubber dust cover. It'll centre correctly on the piston and set its own operating range in the cylinder.
I put put a lump of grease into the end of the piston before attaching the dust cover and topped up the reservoir once all was completed. Don't forget to nip up the bleed nipple tight.

I did originally try the traditional method with the Mrs on the pedal and me under the car but it wasn't as easy as the above and you can do this method described just by yourself, thus gaining Brownie points...

Paul

[tony]

After years of swearing and cursing , I now initially use a syringe on the bleed nipple and suck the fluid through the system. Works ok for me.
Tony.

[Charles H]

I just rebuilt the master / replaced the slave on my 2.5 with parts from Chris Witor - it's a new 7/8" Land Rover item in effect. I did have to mount the slave the other (rear) side of the plate than the original as firstly in its original place, the piston popped out and jammed the clutch dis-engaged, which was quite annoying at 10.30pm...
The different position moved the piston operating range further into the cylinder and all is now working fine.

Paul

This is the correct fitting for the slave cylinder. It should fit to the rear of the mounting plate.

[Paul64]

Hi Charles,

Interesting one as the old cylinder was in the other way around...! I guess with passage of time, someone fitted another brand's cylinder and as I threw away the old one prior to the new one arriving, I didn't have it to compare.
Still, interesting experience and I managed to push the car quite some distance before the Mrs arrived with a tow rope and the old Merc estate to bring me home for a hot chocolate and a biscuit. Or was it a beer? I don't recall now... it was a bit hazy....

Paul

[delnch]

Thanks to all who posted to help me with this conundrum. Unfortunately when I bought the car I could select any gears so it was a lottery as to what would happen. I bit the bullet stripped the master down carefully, gave it a good clean and inspection before rebuilding with plenty of red rubber grease and fresh seals. A bleed through on the bench showed potential. It then sat for 2 weeks before I could get the time to put it all together yesterday.

Once together and bled using my Sealey manual vacuum pump ( Around £60 and a bargain, especially for changing diff oil ) all was looking promising. Decided to bite the bullet and fire the old girl up selected 1st and away she went. Happy days. Have been up into second and reverse and all seems well.

Adcice to anyone trying this for the first time: Trust your skills, have a large bench to strip the master down like an exploded view. A good bleed with a suction pump or similar and it will be fine.