On a 1977 2500S. Easy or difficult?
Mine's cracked quite badly around the choke knob but I have a better one to swap in. Hoping to get it done tomorrow but the manual is pretty vague on this task - hopefully it means it's nice and easy
Presumably the fan switch and cigarette lighter need to come out, along with the choke knob and cable?
Anything I need to watch out for?
Centre console removal
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
Re: Centre console removal
Pretty straight forward, just a bit of a bind removing the knobs. Also the set screws have been in a long time and I have had some completely seized into the floor pan.
Charles Harrison
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Re: Centre console removal
What's the best way to remove the knobs?
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
- Dave B
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Re: Centre console removal
IIRC there is a spring-loaded plunger on the underside of the spindle of the fan switch knob, and some, but not all, of the choke cable knobs. Just depress the plunger via the little hole on the underside of the knob. If it's a non detachable type on the choke, disconnect the inner cable at the carbs then pull it back into the car.
Club Member 2035
1970 2500 Mk2 in pimento red[/col
Toyota Avensis T4 Tourer
1970 2500 Mk2 in pimento red[/col
Toyota Avensis T4 Tourer
Re: Centre console removal
If you mean the choke and heater knobs, then Dave has answered your question.
If you mean the sliding heater control knobs (which you have to remove to remove the console), then they simply pull off, although they can be quite tight, and sometimes need some leverage behind them with a cloth to protect the surfaces.
The two parcel shelves ideally need to come out, along with the gearlever surround (the gearknob has to come off too). As Charles says the screws securing the front of the console (in front the gear lever), and securing the rear of the console can be difficult to get out as the threads tend to rust on the underside where they are exposed to the elements. You think they are starting to turn, but they then get very stiff when the rusty threads start to bite. If you can squirt them from underneath (although this is awkward if the gearbox insulation pad is in place) the day before it will help. You need to remove the ashtray, the radio (if fitted) and the heater control facia (there are some black headed screws on either side by the vertical slide controls). Once the wood trim has been removed, the only other fiddly bit is removing the two side screws that fasten to the bracket on the underside of the dash.
It is a bit of a fiddly job, especially the first time, but methodical thinking will get you through it.
If you mean the sliding heater control knobs (which you have to remove to remove the console), then they simply pull off, although they can be quite tight, and sometimes need some leverage behind them with a cloth to protect the surfaces.
The two parcel shelves ideally need to come out, along with the gearlever surround (the gearknob has to come off too). As Charles says the screws securing the front of the console (in front the gear lever), and securing the rear of the console can be difficult to get out as the threads tend to rust on the underside where they are exposed to the elements. You think they are starting to turn, but they then get very stiff when the rusty threads start to bite. If you can squirt them from underneath (although this is awkward if the gearbox insulation pad is in place) the day before it will help. You need to remove the ashtray, the radio (if fitted) and the heater control facia (there are some black headed screws on either side by the vertical slide controls). Once the wood trim has been removed, the only other fiddly bit is removing the two side screws that fasten to the bracket on the underside of the dash.
It is a bit of a fiddly job, especially the first time, but methodical thinking will get you through it.
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
Re: Centre console removal
Thanks all, much appreciated. I didn't get round to the job this weekend but it's on the list for next weekend. I'll let you know how I get on.
Adelaide, South Australia (ex-Brighton, UK)
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
1977 2500S - White
My 2500 blog: https://triumph2500blog.wordpress.com/
Re: Centre console removal
You can leave the gear knob on, and feed the trim pad through the aperture in the console I think!
Charles Harrison
Register member 3095
Folkestone
Cherry Red Mk1 2000 Rally Car
Mallard Blue 2.5PI
Sapphire Blue GT6 Mk3
Vermillion Red Spitfire 1500
Pimento Red TR6
Inky Blue VW Passat B5.5
Arctic Blue Jaguar XJ40
Silver Range Rover Vogue SE
Register member 3095
Folkestone
Cherry Red Mk1 2000 Rally Car
Mallard Blue 2.5PI
Sapphire Blue GT6 Mk3
Vermillion Red Spitfire 1500
Pimento Red TR6
Inky Blue VW Passat B5.5
Arctic Blue Jaguar XJ40
Silver Range Rover Vogue SE
Re: Centre console removal
Personally, for the time it takes to remove the gear lever knob, its not worth faffing about and risking damaging the surround. Good undamaged ones are getting harder to find...
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
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