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Door adjustment

Posted: Fri May 11, 2018 8:59 am
by Llessur
Looks like the driver's door on my new 2500 (long story, will post something later) is sitting too close to the A pillar - the gap here is very small whereas the gap at the B pillar is too large.

In addition, the door is dropping at the B pillar end but there's some play in the top hinge pin so I'm thinking replacing this should resolve this.

What are the options for adjusting the door front to back? Can you put a space in between the door and the hinge, or is there another way?

I think at some point this door has been replaced so it is likely not the one that the car came with when it left the factory...

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Fri May 11, 2018 9:20 am
by Alec
Hello Llessur,

I have had similar problems in the past and made up shims to adjust the gap.

Alec

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Fri May 11, 2018 9:56 am
by Llessur
Cheers Alec, that was my plan. Did it work out OK for you?

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Fri May 11, 2018 10:03 am
by Alec
Hello Llessur,

Yes it did. I think that most shells now have had a lot of welding done and doors having replacements skins or repair sections that the original dimensions are lost a certain amount? Needs must to try and get an acceptable shut line.

Alec

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Fri May 11, 2018 11:32 am
by Tinsmith_Skippy
Hello I’ve a few left over laser cut spacers stainless steel 0.75 0.5 0.25 mm top and bottom pm me for price if your interested.

Image

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Sat May 12, 2018 9:54 am
by Llessur
PM sent 🙂

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Sun May 13, 2018 7:10 pm
by johnnydog
In the past, I have seen original cars with shims behind one or both hinges on either front door. They appeared to have been fitted when built presumably when a heavy tweak of the door on the production line wasn't sufficient. They are not shown in the official parts book though.

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Wed May 16, 2018 1:12 pm
by bigestate
Nice to hear of these scuttle techniques being used for technical adjustments and not the spoon dolly and 4lb hammer or small socket procedure :lol:

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 6:02 am
by Clifford Pope
There's an annoying inter-relationship between the alignment of the two doors. The trailing edge of both front doors stands out about 1mm from the leading edge of the rear doors. The catch on the B pillar is already adjusted as far inwards as it will go.
The only answer seems to be to put shims on the rear door hinges to move them outwards slightly. That's worked quite well on the driver's side, and the rubber sealing strip seems to have gradually expanded to take up the gap.
On the passenger's however it needs a bit more adjustment, and that begins to look noticeable at the top of the door frame where it meets the roof, and I obviously don't want a water leak at that point. What I'd really like to do is move the hinges out a bit but bend the door top inwards. Is that going to do something awful if a try?

Re: Door adjustment

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:08 pm
by johnnydog
I understand from what I gleaned many years ago that after shims had been placed behind the hinges (if required), the tweaking the top frame of doors in moderation on the production line was an accepted practise to get the doors to fit something like.
But manufacturing tolerances then were a far cry from those on modern vehicles today.
It is also relative to what panel replacement the Triumphs have had in their 40-50 year life, and how well the job was done. Sill replacement for example if not done correctly (i.e. bracing the body prior to removal) can result in minor twists in the body which show up later, for example with replacement doors.