Hi Everyone. I can't find any new old stock door seals. The ones nowadays are soft 3m type. Could anyone point me in the right direction (not weather strips or felt).
Thanks Jeff
Door seals
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White Triumph 2000 estate mk1 1968
Triumph 2.5PI Valencia
Triumph 2.5PI Valencia
Re: Door seals
Baines.
Tony.
Tony.
1976 2500 TC. converted to S specs.
Lots of bits
1999 BMW Z3.
2006 BMW 325ti.
Hopefully not needing too many bits.
.
Lots of bits
1999 BMW Z3.
2006 BMW 325ti.
Hopefully not needing too many bits.
.
Re: Door seals
Just to clarify a little more, that is COH Baines. Their windscreen seals are pretty good, but whether they do door seals I'm not certain. As you know Jeff, the rubber in most aftermarket seals is very soft, against the firmness of the original door seals and doesn't retain its shape well. The originals, being quite firm, were probably not the best at giving a good air tight seal, but overall fair better than aftermarket efforts. Aftermarket / reproduction varieties are not moulded for the corners either. If the doors have dropped only very slightly, or are very close fit to the the B or C pillars, the rubber can drag on the bodywork and fold over looking very unsightly and not really doing what it was intended to properly.
Probably like rocking horse, but originals for me if you find them......
Probably like rocking horse, but originals for me if you find them......
Register Member no. 1596
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red
Re: Door seals
Baines do supply door seals. Put some on my S. Unlike some others they are easy to fit and so far seem good.
Tony.
Tony.
1976 2500 TC. converted to S specs.
Lots of bits
1999 BMW Z3.
2006 BMW 325ti.
Hopefully not needing too many bits.
.
Lots of bits
1999 BMW Z3.
2006 BMW 325ti.
Hopefully not needing too many bits.
.
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- Posts:84
- Joined:Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:50 pm
- Location:Luton
Re: Door seals
theres other posts about the trials and tribulations of door seals that dont fit
i used C O Baines SRS 071 runs rounds the door channel in five minutes ., use a little soft soap to lube.
you may wish to use a different section , a slightly deeper seal would be my second choice
its getting the Tee section correct to fit the doors C channel that most other suppliers get wrong and then its door off and fight it for days levering and prizing the wedge into the C channel
just how triumph did it on line ....not.
Pete
i used C O Baines SRS 071 runs rounds the door channel in five minutes ., use a little soft soap to lube.
you may wish to use a different section , a slightly deeper seal would be my second choice
its getting the Tee section correct to fit the doors C channel that most other suppliers get wrong and then its door off and fight it for days levering and prizing the wedge into the C channel
just how triumph did it on line ....not.
Pete
Pete Lewis
Luton
also area organiser for herts and beds tssc.
Luton
also area organiser for herts and beds tssc.
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Re: Door seals
I think I've probably said this before somewhere, but it might be of interest:
I found the most difficult bit was persuading the rubber to stay in the channel on the S-shaped section around the door latch. It wanted to jump off the track, and if constrained in the channel would distort so that it rubbed on the pillar and kept pulling out.
I found the answer was to glue it in with Evostick, and then shut the door with a piece of thick cardboard wedged in the gap, and left shut for a few days until the glue had fully set and the rubber had been forced to conform to the correct shape.
Also other users need educating to be careful getting in and out not to rub against the rubber seal. Modern cars are much more forgiving, and seem to have seals that are clamped robustly in place.
I found the most difficult bit was persuading the rubber to stay in the channel on the S-shaped section around the door latch. It wanted to jump off the track, and if constrained in the channel would distort so that it rubbed on the pillar and kept pulling out.
I found the answer was to glue it in with Evostick, and then shut the door with a piece of thick cardboard wedged in the gap, and left shut for a few days until the glue had fully set and the rubber had been forced to conform to the correct shape.
Also other users need educating to be careful getting in and out not to rub against the rubber seal. Modern cars are much more forgiving, and seem to have seals that are clamped robustly in place.
Re: Door seals
Pete, I expect the doors came to the assembly line complete. Not sure if they paint dipped the bodyshell with the doors on but I suspect not.pete lewis wrote:there are other posts about the trials and tribulations of door seals that dont fit
i used C O Baines SRS 071 runs rounds the door channel in five minutes ., use a little soft soap to lube.
just how triumph did it on line ....not.
Pete
Kev
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