Water pump change

[Forkie]

So another job to do is change the leaking water pump. So among another mass of parts i received earlier in the year was a pump. Having only now decided to have a look at this i completely overlooked the fact that it sits in a housing. A quick browse through the manual has raised a few questions....i have decided i may as well purchase a new housing, as who knows what state that is in. My questions are i assume there must be a gasket between pump body and head - but C.W. does not list one, and also it looks as if the pulley needs to be removed from the impeller to be able to bolt the new pump to the new body - does anyone have any idea the best way to remove the pulley - it is a press fit as oppose the manual giving it as a nut to remove first.
Many thanks.

[johnnydog]

The water pump is one unit - pulley, impeller and body. The pulley does not separate from the pump impeller. If you have the correct water pump, it should not have threaded bolt holes on the pulley - these were for different Triumph models - not the 2000 /2500. They usually come with a near 'triangular' shaped gasket to use between the water pump body and the housing. There is also another gasket between the housing and the cylinder head. The housing itself does not usually deteriorate apart from suffering surface rust, and occasionally corrosion on the neck where the bottom hose is connected (or the small top hose where a PAS link pipe is fitted), but unless it's severe, this doesn't make them unserviceable.
Changing the waterpump is easy - three nuts on the studs of the housing. They have to be partially released to allow the waterpump itself to be moved along the studs so that the nuts can then be fully removed - there isn't enough space to remove the nuts from the studs without first doing this.

[iani]

Original water pumps do come apart and are serviceable, I have one ready to go onto the 2.5l motor going into my Estate. These pumps are what the manual is referring to, as Jonnydog says however, modern replacement pumps aren't serviceable, they are cheap enough to be treated as consumables in any case.

[johnnydog]

Some early waterpumps had a nut holding the pulley rather the pressed fit - not sure whether these were Stanpart or aftermarket, but maybe its reasonable to assume that these could possibly come apart? Some also had a grease nipple for periodic lubrication, and then some had a drain slot which was supposed to be fitted on the underside. But apart from these early versions, as iani says, the cost of decent quality 'nos' replacements barely makes it worth repairing them.

[iani]

Some early waterpumps had a nut holding the pulley rather the pressed fit - not sure whether these were Stanpart or aftermarket, but maybe its reasonable to assume that these could possibly come apart? Some also had a grease nipple for periodic lubrication, and then some had a drain slot which was supposed to be fitted on the underside. But apart from these early versions, as iani says, the cost of decent quality 'nos' replacements barely makes it worth repairing them.

the early pumps were Stanpart, it's stamped on mine, I picked it up as NOS, a lovely new brass impeller, all set to go on the new motor going into my estate.

[Forkie]

Ah i get you - think the book was cross wiring me, saying to remove the nuts you need to take the pulley off by it's central bolt which of course the new ones do not. So yes i follow what you mean now - slacken the three nuts behind the pulley gradually until free. So in theory then no need to remove body from head at all , just the pipes ( after draining of course ). Nothing else to apply anywhere when fitting new unit, other than the new 'triangular' gasket? And no threads in the holes on the new one, just plain. Incidently, would mine of had a nut at the pulley when new, or was that set up only on early cars - just curious as the one on the car that is leaking is also a press fit.
Brass impeller - what a shame that you will never see it again once fitted!!!
Hopefully then get that job done over the weekend - one job off the list anyway....

[johnnydog]

Make sure the mating faces are clean and there is no old gasket material left, put a thin smear of blue hylomar or similar on both sides of the gasket and refit! Yours being a very late car would not have had a nut securing the pulley, or even a gease nipple - the pulley is just a pressed fit.

[Forkie]

Ah so like everything else on the car, more likely to be the original pump then!! Many thanks for the help

[Forkie]

Well just thought i would post up a 'progress ' report. Amazingly, i (well i should say we- this was to be my lads' first real job on the car at 12 - with my guidance , for whatever that meant! ) actually did get on it today. I wouldn't say it was 'easy' John - not hard, but really fiddly!!!! I mean i could of removed a host of other bits to gain better access, but that would of been toooo easy !!!!
Anyways as seems par for the course with this car nothing was solid seized - the 3 nuts moved away without fuss, a few taps on the pump and it let go, so pump removed without further damage - happy with that. The studs are fine too. So old gasket removed - that took some scraping - not the easiest place to get to either, with the bonnet in the way !!! Whoever fitted that 48 years ago did a good job. I am not happy with the ' new' hoses i fitted either side of the SS link pipe i fitted 14 years ago so im having them renewed. And blue hylomar - whats that these days !!!!! Even Halfrauds do not stock it. So i have had to order that online this evening. The simple things - never around anymore oh and as a P.S. - the pump was stamped Stanpart , so as i thought, original pump was still fitted