Fuel guage reading not compliant!

[Forkie]

Ok so I had a second run this evening after the lay up. Part of the work my guy had to do was to re-fit the fuel tank, and the 3 wires, that I failed to label, as it was going back in next month . He had a few issues with the two spades the same size but got there in the end with correct reading.
However - we had put 3 gallon in at his workshop, from a dry tank - the fuel gauge read just a shade over 1/4, and time I drove home (12 miles ish with one rich carb and no 3rd gear) it was 1/4. This evening, before second test drive, I put in a further 3 gallons from the jerry can, just so i knew there was plenty in!!
But the gauge still gave the same reading as before - 1/4 full.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

P.S. re Mike Stevens - see, I did warn you now I am back, the questions are back

[iani]

If you earth out the sender the gauge should read full, that will tell you if the gauge is correct. How is your temperature gauge behaving? both it and the fuel gauge take 10V average from the voltage regulator, worth checking that is behaving correctly too. Your sender gauge may have become gummed up through inactivity, it might free off if stuck, you could be lucky, I'd prob fill the tank and see what it does then.

[Forkie]

Temp gauge seems fine, will pass that on,its yet another ' everything was fine before the lay up'

[Forkie]

FILL THE TANK I live in Cornwall - do you not realise the cost of that suggestion

[Charles H]

If you earth the sender wire (not the warning light) the gauge should rise to maximum. This will take a little time. Then if the wire is connected to nothing, ie no circuit, the gauge should read zero or below. This way you have checked the gauge for correct operation. If all is well, then the sender is the fault. Make sure that the fuel level is below the sender, and tap the locking ring anti clockwise and remove the sender from the tank. It probably is seized. The arm should be able to move up and down freely. If the arm moves freely, without refitting it, plug the wires on and move it through its whole operating arc and check the gauge rises and falls as expected. If not, try another sender.

[Forkie]

Ok Charles, thanks for that,that is two of you saying to try the same, ideal. I may just pop the sender out in the morning, just to check that movement as you suggested.
Incidently, would you know offhand which wire is which - just been out to check cable colours etc - there is a green with black strip on terminal marked 'T'
green with red stripe on terminal marked 'W'
solid black on the smaller spade

[Alec]

Hello Forkie,

the green black is to for gauge, green\red is peculiar as that is the colour for the indicator lamps, (I forget which side). It should be, acording to the manual, be white\black which is for the warning lamp (W)?

Alec

[Forkie]

Hi Alec
That is definately the colour codes,so i'm not quite sure how or why, and as I hate electrics, I thought I would remove the sender unit first as Charles suggested, as it is easier
No need to look any further on this topic - the arm is stuck solid !!! It probably had the level of fuel that the gauge/arm is currently showing when laid up I am surmising, during which time the arm seized.
At least that is one issue solved today anyhow, happy with that, and yet another new part coming it's way !!! Thanks guys,

Regards,Nige

[Dave B]

For what its worth, I've read that sender units are not as readily available as they once were, and quite expensive when they are.
Try a can of carb cleaner on your unit to see if you can get it moving, better still would be dunking it in a sonic cleaning tank if you know anyone who has one.

[Alec]

Hello Forkie,

who knows what has been done to the cars over the years. It's easy to check the warning lamp by earthing the wire as you can see the dash board from the back of the car.

The colour codes can be found by searching the internet, it is very useful to know when trying to check wiring, as long as other wires haven't been fitted in the meantime.

Alec