Engine removal and PAS

[Llessur]

I'm planning on swapping the engine in my 2500S for a better 2.5 unit which I salvaged from my TC.

I know the 'correct' method is to drop the engine and gearbox as one unit from underneath but as I'll be working alone my plan was to remove the gearbox first from underneath the car (I've done this before without major issue) and then with the bonnet removed, pull the engine out from above. This is what I did with the salvaged TC lump and it worked well (I needed to remove the radiator, flywheel and the top bellhousing studs for the engine to clear the bulkhead).

If I do the same again with the S, am I likely to run in to any problems with the power steering? Is it just a case of removing the belt and unbolting the pump from the block?

We're renovating at the moment so the car's a bit inaccessible for a few days, thought it was worth posing the question here first so I can start planning this in my mind...

[johnnydog]

I have recently removed an auto engine by first dropping the gearbox, then as you say removing the bonnet and radiator to pull the engine upwards with no real issues. The flywheel teeth can foul the top of the gearbox tunnel but a little movement on the crane or block/ tackle allows sufficient clearance.
This is the way I have always done it. If you have the height, the engine and gearbox can actually be removed as one, but you need two people - one to operate the lifting method and the other to support the rear of the gearbox and swing it round and to ensure that it doesn't damage the bodywork etc. There is less chance of damaging other components and bodywork separating them.
The car had PAS - I just unbolted the pump from the block, wrapped it in rags and just placed it to one side as the engine came out. You may have to reposition the pump whilst the engine is on it's way up. No need to completely remove it though or drain the fluid if you are careful.
Just be careful of the metal PAS pipes on the rack when removing the engine upwards - it is easy to crush them with the sump.
When refitting, the same applies to the PAS pipes on the rack. The sump also needs something just to gently 'shoehorn' it over the cross member....

[Llessur]

Cheers johnnydog, that was what I was hoping for. I had some troubles with the flywheel catching on the gearbox tunnel/bulkhead too but I'm thinking this time round I'll just whip off the clutch and flywheel from underneath after I've removed the gearbox. I think from memory there are a couple of studs at the top of the backplate where the gearbox bellhousing mates to it but I can hopefully pull these out too to give even more clearance. I guess I can also remove the fan but this wasn't necessary last time.

The PAS was my main worry but I'll be mindful of the pipes and hopefully all will go smoothly...

It should hopefully make this a one man job - I haven't got the height or a spare pair of hands to take it all out as one unit from above, nor do I fancy the idea of having to raise the car high enough to drop it all out from underneath - plus the stability problems etc of sliding it out when it's on the ground. This way feels a bit safer to me, if not a bit more long-winded.

[tony]

To me, the worst job is getting the nuts off the top studs holding the gear box to the motor. Multiple socket extensions and lots of swearing
Tony.

[Llessur]

I didn't find it too bad last time - it wasn't super easy but with a couple of extensions and some UJs they didn't put up too much of a fight. Plus my skinny wrists and arms worked to my advantage for once!