national 2014

[Mike Stevens]

A third solutuon is Pirelli webbing. The info is scanned and on here somewhere.

However, one of Chris's new diaphragms must be the best way.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Alan Chatterton]

What seats are in yours John? I may have a lead on a decent pair of red mk1 front seats.

[CAR]

A third solutuon is Pirelli webbing. The info is scanned and on here somewhere.

However, one of Chris's new diaphragms must be the best way.

Cheers,
Mike.

Dad fitted one of Chris' new diaphragms to the driver's seat of Cecil. Not an easy job but worth the effort. Although he hasn't done Mum's seat yet.....the memories are still raw.

Colin

[johnconradlee]

I think the diaphragm is ok (as far as I can see/feel without taking the seat out) I think it's the foam that's disintegrating and now dropping through the holes a that's causing the major issue. I've not sunk by much but just enough to make it blooming uncomfortable after a couple of hours.
Wondering if I can take out the seat, remove the diaphragm shove some more padding under the seat base in addition to the existing foam and reassemble. The red vinyl is perfect or at least not bad for 47 years and 135 ish thousand miles.
The other option is I have a pair of comparatively comfortable 48,000 mile poo brown early Mk2 seats with perfect foam and diaphragms but disintegrated nylon center panel left over from my last car. Was thinking if I put a blanket over it to hide it's horridness I could swap the driver seat in for the trip up North.

[Charles H]

I have the original red vinyl seats from my Mk1 which are in good condition if you need some originals. They even have the ashtrays on the backs. Now a bit dirty, but were in really good nick when removed. Could bring them to the National if required.

[TedTaylor]

A third solutuon is Pirelli webbing. The info is scanned and on here somewhere.

However, one of Chris's new diaphragms must be the best way.

Cheers,
Mike.

The Spares Group did consider offering a 'Pirelli webbing kit' with everything cut to length and stitched and with holes properly punched for the hooks and with a burlap pad. I had a word with CW at the last National about it in case he would take some stock - we had investigated proper diaphragms but the people we contacted messed us around with saying they could do them and then saying they could not. The kit would have been about £40+ per side.

Chris went away and checked with his supplier and found he could do the proper diaphragms at a price which meant it was not worth us doing the kit AND members had the correct thing. So we left it to him having done our bit in triggering off production of a much needed replacement item.

The other problem with collapsing seats is the condition of the foam ....... it flattens. Also the diaphragm can develop an odd split which cannot be detected/seen until the seat is removed.

MUT

[Mike Stevens]

I remember swapping good original diaphragms about a few years ago (must be at least 15!) and in the end I made a special tool to help. It was a wide bladed screwdriver into which I filed a notch in the middle of the blade. This helped push the hooks over into their holes in the frames. The other thing to note is that the hooks have to go in 'lifted up' to create the angle to get them right in.

It wasn't something that I'd like to do too often, but since they are now available, it would be my preferred route.

Presently I have Rover seats in the PI (same as Colin's original idea) but come the restoration it's going to need soon, it would be nice to put back decent Triumph seats. I'd have to get covers made though.

Foams. I have in the past dismantled seats and replaced disintegrating foams with newer stuff. It isn't too difficult, but do take lots of pictures of where all the clips go!

Cheers,
Mike.

[johnconradlee]

Leant across to the passenger footwell earlier and had that sinking feeling. Suspect diaphragm is now thoroughly broken. Will attempt emergency diaphragm transplant surgery off the Mk2 seats tomorrow. Also the hot weather has loosened the drivers window off the winder mechanism. What do I stick it back with?

[kevinw]

Windows always come off the mechanism when you are about to go away Assuming a mark 1 is the same as a TR, the glass will sit in a little cradle that sits on and rolls across the scissor mechanism that raises and lowers the glass. It will be a sandwich of rubber strip wrapped around the bottom edge of the glass and wedged into the cradle. Installing needs a rubber mallet and you ned to convince yourself that glass is very strong in compression when you hit the cradle and rubber sandwich back onto the glass. When my TR driver's window did the same thing, I discovered that a previous owner had bodged it with mastic and duct tape. As you are short on time, you might get away with a very strong mastic type stuff, like Sikkoflex. You can get this locally from Express Paints in Dundas Spur. It is black and sticks like you know what to a blanket, proper use being in modern coachwork assembly to fix stretch panels. If you need to take the glass and cradle out, you will almost certainly need to remove the weather strip at the top of the door skin. If you don't have one, I have the special tool to put the clips back that you are welcome to borrow.

Kevin

[quentin]

For those coming up to Northumberland for the National this weekend, remember that there is an excellent small Show at Paxton House, couple of miles west of Berwick Upon Tweed, this Sunday, from 11am. Paxton House is well worth a visit, and there are various family attractions too on the Show ground.
I shall be there with my 1975 2500TC, so drop by and say hello.
Quentin