The Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register Forum

Last nights rain has left puddles in both footwell, so the fitter is coming back today to remove the screen and apply more sealer.

Second option is to fit an electric bilge pump, I have a small garden fountain water pump that might do the job.

I have seen some cars with the aperture between the rubber and the body completely filled with sealant, and then smoothed over - it looks terrible as well as being unnecessary! From my experience of leaks, the main cause is insufficient sealing of the glass to the rubber especially in the lower corners, rather than the rubber to the body, which is done with the sealant gun after the rubber and screen are in place and before the stainless trim is fitted. Most leaks that drip onto the parcel shelves can be seen seeping from the upper side of the rubber by the glass rather then the lower side by the body (if that makes sense..??)

Yup, that’s exactly where it was tracked down to. Sealer added between screen and rubber.

The fitter was made to sit inside whilst we squirted a pressure hose all over the screen.

Saturday was engine start day.

I had previously rebuilt the SU carbs off the car using the correct needles and springs for a 2.5 (also added new tags so in the future we’ll know what the specs are). After a lot of experimentation I worked out why the car needed half throttle before the carbs opened up, careful adjustment of the linkages solved that.

Colleague Lee had stripped and rebuilt 2500S distributor that we picked up at Stoneleigh. Static timed the dizzie to 10 degrees btdc. Played with the spaghetti plug leads, until they were in the right order.

I had rebuilt the fuel pump a few months back but have replaced the mangled and crushed steel pump to carb pipe with some 1/4” copper pipe and a new olive.

Set up the tappets as per the manual 10 thou.

Fitted a new alternator bracket to get some reasonable tension on the fan belt.

Radiator in with new clip in nuts, rather than the old collection of random nuts bolts and washers.

Ran the engine with the plugs out until the oil pressure light went out and then popped the plugs in.

Turned her over and brmmm - away we go. Chuffed to bits.

Jobs to do

Readjust the tappets
Fine tune the carbs
Dynamically time the dizzie, and adjust the dwell angle
Fit new water pump

Carboy0 wrote: ↑

Thu May 02, 2019 9:44 pm

Seats in now, really comfortable, with lots of side support.

1A3AD116-613B-45F5-B5FD-C7C83D9A7ED1.jpeg

Can you provide a separate post in which you can describe the steps undertaken to achieve the new seat install?

regards,

Kev

Hi Kev

Yes happy to do an article. Is this for the forum or the magazine?

I'm sure Andrew would be delighted to put a technical article in SixAppeal!

Cheers,
Mike.

Fair enough, I’ll collate my pics and work up a full story and post.

As requested I have dropped an article in the ‘Body + Trim’ section, covering the seat installation called “Seat Update”.

I hope that someone finds it useful.

Good day and a bad day on Rusty.

Fitted the longer bottom rad hose - fitted new water pump - fitted new thermostat housing with take off for rad fan switch.

Wired the fan switch up through relay and tested the existing Kenlow fan, we couldn’t get the coolant hot enough to trigger the fan at 90 degrees, so will test another day in a cup of boiling water.

Attention then turned to the rear end to diagnose the clunk on take off. Well what can I say, there’s about 15 degrees slack between the crown-wheel and pinion and a little slack in some of the drive-shaft UJs and one of the sliding splines.

So we need a budget solution, does anyone have a spare diff unit? The existing one is from the original 2.0 litre, although the engine is 2.5 litre, so will happily pull a 3.45:1.

Any offers or leads will be welcome.