Facelift P.I rescue!

[sahtuning2000]

Thanks for the kind words,ive decided to give the P.I a go at trying to get it raodworthy,today i removed all the wheels for a close ceck underside and of the brakes and no nasty surprises,even the discs are not to rusty and the rear shoes/cylinders are bone dry,pads look new and all the tyres(185/13)are at 7mm.
I oiled/geased several things underneath and wrote up a list of things to get,some from a friend and some from Chris witor.
Still no temp gauge working so i thing i need a sensor there
Fuel sender was solid,i got it freed up but its not loose enough so a spare i,am collecting tommorrow,aswell as a horizonal front panel trim thats missing.
Washer pump is U/S my dad has a new one for me on Tuesday.
The reason it has no brakes is because the master cylinder has leaked,so will get a rebuild kit on order for this
What parts could i do with also??
An exhaust,any ideas,its an auto and really only needs a back box,i know mild steel is a bit of a no no,but i don,t want to go mad,anyone got a S/H stainless system?i do have a sports backbox but i sort of feel i should have this all as is.
Pair of blue headrests?
51K is genuine i have a stamped passport of service and several old MOTS before it came of the road.

[Dave B]

Still no temp gauge working so i thing i need a sensor there

To test the gauge without changing the sensor, pull the wire off the sensor and connect to a good earth point, with the ignition on the temp gauge should move all the way across to H, if not then then the fault could be elsewhere, voltage stabiliser unit on the back of the dash for example.

[sahtuning2000]

Thanks yes i,ve just been told to do the same thing by someone else,will try this shortly
It has a large battery tray so i can get a beefy battery for it,just need to know what one,i don,t want a tiny small tray battery in it.

[Dave B]

Thanks yes i,ve just been told to do the same thing by someone else,will try this shortly
It has a large battery tray so i can get a beefy battery for it,just need to know what one,i don,t want a tiny small tray battery in it.

In that case I would go for my original choice, a type 096R, brand of your choice, around 72/75 amp/hr and 650 CCA depending on make, and with the correct terminal layout for the Triumph.

[sahtuning2000]

Bought a new battery today and collected a few parts i needed,fuel tank sendor,stainless trim and a few other trim bits.
Spoke to C.W today and ordered a few bits from him inc new rear cylinders/master rebuild kit,etc,so all going well.
Getting the backbox is proving a pain though...
Got a washer pump coming tommorrow aswell so getting there.

[sahtuning2000]

Can someone confirm that it will be tax exempt as of April 1st this year?,my friend told me today it would,it was registered on 1/8/74.

[johnconradlee]

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/s ... icles_.pdf

[Mike Stevens]

I agree with Dave about the battery. I have an 096R in my PI and it works fine. Being a 1972 car it does have the wide tray though.

Tax exemption is all about the build date of the car, so you need to find that out. The commission numbers at the end of each build year are known or you can get a certificate from Gaydon (I guess?).

Well done on getting it back running again. The PI system is much better than its reputation with the majority of problems coming from other parts of the engine having a knock-on effect on the PI system.

Cheers,
Mike.

[sahtuning2000]

Update on the P.I,ive finished the service and all is well now on that side,ive at last finished the rear brakes after a few issues with pipes and cylinders but tonight i seem to have got there at last,i also decided to go for a CW semi sport complete system which i should have tommorrow,i removed the rear and centre sections tonight but have left the downpipe,i havea REAL fear factor that the manifold studs will snap so i want to leave alone to be honest,it came of nice and easy and is waiting for the new stainless system.
Then i think it maybe close to MOT time soon,sorted the insurance yesterday and the V5 went a week ago,although it was a 1981 v5 i hope the DVLA is O.K with it.
I want to maybe hold of until 1ST April so i get tax exempt,i will then look at the body,i don,t know what route to take here,if anything not sure yet,just want it roadworthy first.

[johnnydog]

I would personally not consider 'mix and matching' with your exhaust - I would go either all steel or all stainless. From experience, a stainless middle section mated to a mild steel down pipe results in a slight blow at the joint as the different metals expand at different rates with the heat.
As to the manifold studs shearing, it's got to be worth soaking them overnight with plus gas or the equivalent, or better still a bit of direct heat on the nut before attempting to release them. I would also just try initially nipping them up very very slightly before undoing them, which can help to 'crack' the nut and reduce the risk of shearing them.
A couple of years ago, I successfully removed the manifold stud nuts from a MK1 which had been off the road for 25 years just by soaking them prior to removal.
Go on, give it a go!
It's a lot easier to replace the down pipe now rather than later (when the joint is blowing) as you've got the middle and rear boxes to remove again. And considering the exhaust mounting on the rear subframe to the joint between the centre and back box is a little fiddly to get right, I would fit the full system now and take a chance on the stud nuts...!
Oh, and make sure you fit a proper mounting assembly there - I have seen many bodges, where exhaust places fitted a u clamp instead using just one of the subframe brackets, which invariably results in the bracket breaking and further problems to rectify!