Nope - but could do if it were a Vanguard...
Suppose I should have stated my assumption that a non-diesel car owner is perhaps more likely to have a small quantity of paraffin on hand for general purposes than diesel. If not, however, then there is no reason why you shouldn't start with diesel to begin with (and, in the case of something really stubborn, perhaps every reason why you should...)
Regards,
Another one dragged home :-)
- Jonathan Lewis
- Senior Member
- Posts:1007
- Joined:Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:28 pm
- Location:Monmouthshire
Jonathan Lewis
2.5PI Mk2
2.5PI Mk2
- TedTaylor
- Senior Member
- Posts:1670
- Joined:Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:27 pm
- Location:Forest of Dean (Gloucestershire)
Re: Another one dragged home :-)
Tip over he use of derusting solutions.
I have sworn by Jenolite (or Deb Altrans which can be purchased from janotorial suppliers by the gallon at a massive saving) for the past 40 years but it has to be handled with care (it is phosphoric acid ). However I have recently experimented with Citric acid as a rust remover only - and it is brilliantly effective .......... and cheap I believe it is similar to Deox-C at a fraction of the price.
Use 100g to the gallon and buy on ebay (last purchase cost £3 for 200g) - and it is perfectly safe to stick your hands in it to get things out. You will find the surface flash rusts fairly quickly after removal from the citric acid bath so dry and protect asap, though I usually put the derusted object into Jenolite for about 10 minutes after removal which usually gives a phosphate coating (and saves on Jenolite).
Latest tip from the old skinflint
I have sworn by Jenolite (or Deb Altrans which can be purchased from janotorial suppliers by the gallon at a massive saving) for the past 40 years but it has to be handled with care (it is phosphoric acid ). However I have recently experimented with Citric acid as a rust remover only - and it is brilliantly effective .......... and cheap I believe it is similar to Deox-C at a fraction of the price.
Use 100g to the gallon and buy on ebay (last purchase cost £3 for 200g) - and it is perfectly safe to stick your hands in it to get things out. You will find the surface flash rusts fairly quickly after removal from the citric acid bath so dry and protect asap, though I usually put the derusted object into Jenolite for about 10 minutes after removal which usually gives a phosphate coating (and saves on Jenolite).
Latest tip from the old skinflint
Member 4473 1990
1964 2000 period rally look alike AFH 849B
Morris 1800 London-Sydney/Monte/WCR NAM 616G
Mk1 PI Estate SCG 115G
2500 Estate WDE 76K RBRR 2014
1964 2000 period rally look alike AFH 849B
Morris 1800 London-Sydney/Monte/WCR NAM 616G
Mk1 PI Estate SCG 115G
2500 Estate WDE 76K RBRR 2014
- David Withers
- Senior Member
- Posts:1230
- Joined:Tue Mar 22, 2005 11:28 am
- Location:North Cambridgeshire, UK
- Contact:
Re: Another one dragged home :-)
Jonathan - I did know what you meant of course.
We do use paraffin at the railway - a grade known as 'Burning Oil' - but not for freeing seized parts. Diesel fuel is readily available as it is needed by what one ex-BR steam driver calls "fart-boxes" (in a broad Norfolk accent and usually with an expletive in front of it).
Ted - Yes, your description of citric acid does seem close to Deox-C. Does it leave a gooey white residue on treated components which needs to be washed off before it dries, as does Deox-C?
I find that paint systems adhere very well to steel items which have been allowed to flash-rust and then given the phosphoric acid treatment, so long as this is followed when dry by Scotchbriting to remove the black residue and leave a matt grey finish.
We use a 25% solution of plain orthophosphoric acid, supplied in big plastic carbuoys, and find it best to apply it very lightly - just enough to dampen the rust. I believe Jenolite has something else added and I agree that it's very good stuff - far better than Kurust and others.
We do use paraffin at the railway - a grade known as 'Burning Oil' - but not for freeing seized parts. Diesel fuel is readily available as it is needed by what one ex-BR steam driver calls "fart-boxes" (in a broad Norfolk accent and usually with an expletive in front of it).
Ted - Yes, your description of citric acid does seem close to Deox-C. Does it leave a gooey white residue on treated components which needs to be washed off before it dries, as does Deox-C?
I find that paint systems adhere very well to steel items which have been allowed to flash-rust and then given the phosphoric acid treatment, so long as this is followed when dry by Scotchbriting to remove the black residue and leave a matt grey finish.
We use a 25% solution of plain orthophosphoric acid, supplied in big plastic carbuoys, and find it best to apply it very lightly - just enough to dampen the rust. I believe Jenolite has something else added and I agree that it's very good stuff - far better than Kurust and others.
David Withers
Register Member 0251
1972 Triumph ex-PI (2500S engine) in Saffron
2003 Rover 75 CDTi (BMW engine) in White Gold
Register Member 0251
1972 Triumph ex-PI (2500S engine) in Saffron
2003 Rover 75 CDTi (BMW engine) in White Gold
- Jonathan Lewis
- Senior Member
- Posts:1007
- Joined:Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:28 pm
- Location:Monmouthshire
Re: Another one dragged home :-)
That's quite OK, David. I did briefly consider responding by asking whether you ran your cars on coal, but thought that it might be construed as being 'liable to divert or provoke'!...Dizzy wrote:Jonathan - I did know what you meant of course.
But even such reviled devices are better than the current crop of oversized toothpaste tubes with engines underneath! And, as a certain Mr Clarkson recently discovered, 'proper' locomotives need rather a lot of shovelling to keep them fed!Dizzy wrote:We do use paraffin at the railway - a grade known as 'Burning Oil' - but not for freeing seized parts. Diesel fuel is readily available as it is needed by what one ex-BR steam driver calls "fart-boxes" (in a broad Norfolk accent and usually with an expletive in front of it).
Regards,
Jonathan Lewis
2.5PI Mk2
2.5PI Mk2
Re: Another one dragged home :-)
Wow, thanks for all the tips. We'll start with diesel fuel, I'll let you know how it turns (!) out...
Next step will be a Chris Witor order, I'm sure.
Next step will be a Chris Witor order, I'm sure.
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