What to do, what to do....dum de dum

[sorbs]

Without seeing your rusty bit, it's difficult to judge how bad it is. Do you think it would cause an MOT failure? Has your MOT run out? If so, getting it somewhere to be welded is a nuisance. If you can't do it youself, get a mobile welding guy to come and have a look and give you a quote, or just do the brakes etc., book it in for an MOT and hope for the best! Sounds like it just needs a cheap patch for the MOT, fill it with waxoyl afterwards and it should last for years.

The brakes, service etc. are a leisurely day's work, plenty of time for drinkies & polishing in between getting grubby.

I'm often over in Chester if you want a second opinion. In fact, I should be there tonight but that's another story.....

[Allen Walker]

Hi Sorbs,
Yep, any time you're over give me a call, your very welcome. Tel No. Oh Seven Seven Three Nine Eight Oh Eight Nine Seven Five. Have to be in daylight though, no lights down at the council garage!
Cheers
Allen

[sorbs]

If it's dark, I have a large selection of torches and there are always the car headlights..... I asked my mate in Wrexham if he could recommend any mobile welding people but unfortunately not so you'll have to trawl the yellow pages if you choose to go down that route.

I'm generally quite optimistic about rust so you shouldn't feel too depressed following my visit!

I'll give you a buzz soon and sort something out.

[Mike Stevens]

No, I actually didn't manage to capture the holes, which are just rearward from that shot. The large square hole you see there is the fabricated repair that was done at the behest of a previous owner. They seem to have deliberately left a large hole at the front of the sill. I don't know why or whether it's good or bad.
The other dodgy bits are the front wheel arches, the front valance, and the bottom left hand corner of the windscreen frame (plus of course any hidden nasties which I am sure exist )

Hi Allen,

Water from the windscreen etc goes down on each side over the front end of each sill. A hole underneath should let it out again, so probably a good idea.

I think original front valances are still available at reasonable prices. Fitting one is not actually too bad, just lots of spot welds to grind down/clean off once you've cut the old valance off. Front wheel arches, well they nearly all go there sometime or other. Windscreen frame can be interesting as it's a complex are, but probably caused by leaks around the seal. That'll probably be the worst as it's a screen out (and in again!) job!

I'd be happy to help with the welding (as I've said before) but we're far too far away. We used to have friends who lived in Tarporley (and then Bunbury) who we used to visit, but they've now emigrated to NZ. Not due to our visits I hope!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Allen Walker]

Better pic of the holes here. You can clearly see where the jacking point has collapsed and pushed up. Not sure how the hole alongside it has formed - it may actually be a drain hole.

[Alan Chatterton]

That hole is the original drain hole............ don't weld it up!!

Personally, I would be tempted to just plate over the jacking point and then underseal it......... unless the rest of the sill is rotten...........!

[Forkie]

That is an odd hole,i was just about to suggest it was a grommet hole,which my 'S' has got,but having just whizzed out to check the distance of the first one from the jacking point on mine i'm not sure! Mine is about 8 inches or so back.I thought of the grommet simply because it looks pre-formed,so maybe Alan is right,although mine HASN'T got it! Confused now?!?

[David Withers]

My 1972 car, with its original sills 'as built', has no holes in the bottom at all. The only drain hole, for the water coming from the windscreen area, is the big square one at the bottom of the wing, with splash-plate to stop muck being thrown into it from the wheel.

Allen, the sills are a critical part of the Triumph's structure, and yours are looking very weak. I wouldn't hesitate to have them seen to - it might cost a bit but will surely need doing soon anyway, and it could make a huge difference to you and your passengers' health should the worst happen...

[Allen Walker]

Well, I think the first job is going to be to thoroughly clean the underside of the car then give the dodgy bits a damn good wire brushing to see what's what. Safety aside, the priority is to get the car through the MoT so that I can get it mobile again. What's really hampering me is that with no MoT (or tax, or insurance!) and the car in a council garage about half a mile away from the house, I'm really stymied. Then I can make a decision about what real repairs need doing.

[Charles H]

Early cars 1972 included, do not have any additional holes in the base of the sills. Later cars including the 'S' have a series of holes with grommets in them all the length of them. Many cars have now had replacement panels and will not have the later type panels on them. Allen, your sill doesn't look too bad compared with many, it looks as if the jack has not been located correctly on the pin at some time and it has been pushed up by the jack. I concur with Alan, wire brush it and if no holes appear, underseal it. The hole to the rear seems to be a drain hole, so leave it. You may be able to argue the case with the MoT inspector if he questions it, but make sure it is the same the other side! I did this once on a very old and scabby car by drilling a matching hole on the opposite side! It was like that for about 10 years.