HELP! - Diff Oil Seals

[John Weston]

OK - dropped the whole of the rear end - nearly finished overhauling the whole thing - poly\'s, new springs, stripped and repainted everything....<br>Last part - DIFF<br>It was leaking all over - so how do I swap the new front seal I have sitting in front of me? <img><br>Is it a complete strip-down for the front seal? Do I need to get to an engineering shop to have the bearing pressed out and new one back in?<br>Is there a DIY method?<br>Have read the manual and it seemsa right pain....... advice please....<img><br><br>John<br>
<edited><editID>John Weston</editID><editDate>39528.5856018519</editDate></edited>

[Forkie]

&nbsp;&nbsp; Hi John,i started a thread on this topic back in may,some good advice on that. Being as yours is also an S the advice that i was given might also apply to you,being to replace the entire nosepiece all in one, which includes the seal and bearing complete. Just a thought that might save you some hassle!

[sorbs]

Remember to unblock the diff breather. This seems to have cured oil leakage from the diffs on both of my cars.

[Mike Stevens]

[QUOTE=John Weston] Last part - DIFF
It was leaking all over - so how do I swap the new front seal I have sitting in front of me? <IMG>
Is it a complete strip-down for the front seal? Do I need to get to an engineering shop to have the bearing pressed out and new one back in?
Is there a DIY method?
[/QUOTE]
Hi John,
It\'s not too bad and you don\'t have to disturb the diff.&nbsp; You DO have to remove the nose piece though.&nbsp; This involves supporting the car, removing the 4 BIG bolts that run though the subframe/nosepiece and the 4 bolts holding the nosepiece to the diff.&nbsp;&nbsp;You\'ll also have to disconnect the handbrake cable.&nbsp; With the nosepiece out, also replace the front bearing as it is likely to have lost all its grease with the diff oil coming through.&nbsp; As said elsewhere, DO check the breather, (split pin top back of diff - RH side (?)).
Cheers,
Mike.

[John Weston]

Thanks chaps - I\'m sorting that now...... HOWEVER<br>I dropped the whole rear end as part of a complete overhaul. The nose piece was unbolted and the seals will be done BUT the seal ( pinion shaft? ) at the front end of the main diff housing is a wreck! I think someone tried to remove it previously and has made a right pigs ear of it..... is this gonna need a complete stripdown or should I bite the bullet and go for a recon diff? <img><br>

[Mike Stevens]

[QUOTE=John Weston]The nose piece was unbolted and the seals will be done BUT the seal ( pinion shaft? ) at the front end of the main diff housing is a wreck! I think someone tried to remove it previously and has made a right pigs ear of it..... is this gonna need a complete stripdown or should I bite the bullet and go for a recon diff?
[/QUOTE]
Hi John,
THAT\'s the seal that goes.&nbsp; As long as the running surface on the large diameter end of the quill shaft is OK, you should be able to replace the seal in the diff OK.&nbsp; Is the diff quiet?&nbsp; Ah, maybe you don\'t know.&nbsp; If the diff lost all its oil, the teeth will pick-up against each other and start howling in pretty short time.&nbsp; I have to admit to \'doing\' a number of diffs this way before.
The seal isn\'t easy to get out, but can be done and a new one fitted as well as the bearing behind the propshaft flange.&nbsp; I would see what CW has as he usually keeps the \'proper\' leather-lipped seals.
If you\'re not sure how quiet the diff is, you can remove the back cover and examine the crownwheel teeth.&nbsp; They should be nicely polished NOT marked or rough.&nbsp; It\'s a bit difficult to check from that though&nbsp;but it might give you a clue.
If the diff is quiet, I\'d put a new seal and bearing in and give it a try.
Good luck!
Cheers,
Mike.

[Alec]

Hello John, <br><br>if you do get a leather seal, it needs soaking in oil for 24 hours or so prior to fitting, I believe?<br><br>Alec<br>

[John Weston]

I\'ve got the bits from CW (who else!) but am really struggling on how to remove this seal - is there a tried n tested technique or am I going in blind?
The&nbsp;GF blew up her Suz*** modern so has gone from understanding - do it properly, take your time...... TO - I need wheels, end of April deadline! <IMG>
This is the main thing I see holding up progress.
Mike - diff\'s a good \'un - I drover her for 4yrs without a murmur <IMG>
Alec - will folow that advice, thanks. <IMG>
Now to go work out how I remove it! <IMG>
Will post up some pics in a rebuild thread I\'m gonna start. An online guilt trip to keep me motivated. Right hand is in bandages though due to small mishap <IMG>
John

[Alec]

Hello John, <br><br>removing the old seal depends on your range of tools. I usually use a slide hammer with a hooked end to pull out seals. Another way is to drive a slim tapered rod between the seal case and the differential housing so as to collapse the seal and&nbsp; loosen it in the bore. Depending on the depth a large screwdriver hooked into one side and lever it out.<br><br>They are relatively weak and not too tight in the housing.<br><br>Alec<br>

[Alan Chatterton]

How strange.
I have just written another one of my famous (or is that imfamous!) technical articles on changing diff seals.
Just emailed it to the editor to go in Six Appeal, I assume it\'ll end up on here at some stage!
But yes, this is the way forward. Change the front oil seal and it\'ll be fine. As for soaking in oil, only the original leather ones need that. The new rubber ones from CW just fit and forget.
I put one in the PI last weekend, just got back from 1200 miles over Easter, bone dry, not a drip...........
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