The Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register Forum

Hi all, as some may know I finally have the car up and running, and legal for the road again for the first time in quite a few years, albeit with a couple of issues, mainly the auto box. Initially, it does not appear to be going into top gear. I have since however been paying more attention to how these things actually work, never bothered before as it seemed fine!
So Q 1 - at the carb end (SU's) ,had a quick check at the cable, and it is really slack - and I mean REALLY slack. Could easily deflect in any direction, in a circular motion, 1/2 " easily. I assume that is not right, and may be the cause of my issue. I can grab hold of the outer cable and pull it well clear of the inner cable, with ease....
Q2 - We are going to drain and change the ATF. What is the now recommended equivalent .

Regards, Nige

I have used this company for gear oil, and atf oils for my Triumphs. Good company to deal with and in my opinion excellent products... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254912179577 ... media=COPY

Assuming the excessive slack is not due to a broken inner cable, then the slack ought to be able to be taken up by simple adjustment of the cable at the carb linkage.
If the cable is damaged and needs replacing, whilst I've never had the need to replace one, I'm led to believe it's not a simple job, mainly due to having to access the inside of the box to replace the cable at that end.

Hi John

Thanks for the tip on oils with your supplier - will look into that.
Regarding the slack - for tomorrow evening after work I have left myself a note to ' pull on cable' - that is a refererence to a 'Harvey' post from around 2012 re the Rover forum ,regarding this issue. Since this fault has occured, I have been gaining ground on how this system works, and am now confident it is a set up issue, rather than an actual gearbox fault ,although I have no idea why !! It is intended however to drop the pan,and do the checks anyhow. Although she is now 47 , I treat her like a young 'un - whatever she needs, she gets
P.S. did my second email reply also go elsewhere ?!?!

Regards, Nige

As an aside - the car is going back sometime soon for the water pump swap, a full carb balance and box pan removal/ ATF change / kickdown assesment , so am hoping with any info gleened between now and then should help out.

Forkie wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 09, 2023 11:02 pm

Hi John
P.S. did my second email reply also go elsewhere ?!?!

Regards, Nige

Hi Nige,
I've checked and I haven't got any further emails even in 'spam'.
If you pm me your details, I'll contact you by the 'old fashioned' way - by phone !!

Hi John
Really ?? Ok. I will do the old fashioned thing - Since you have already given me your number, I will contact you through Whatssap, and try things that way

Regards,Nige

Took up some slack of the cable yesterday, so it now certainly 'looks straighter' if you see what i mean - did not want to go too much, for fear of going the other way.... the idea being if i can at least see if it regains the 3rd change up in D, to give a little more confidence that it is the cable setting at fault, rather than the 'box, then wait for a break in this awful weather for a 2nd 'trial run'.
Well that break was this evening after work - DRY all day - unheard of lately - and no rain until the small hours. Got home, told the lad we are off on a shimmy - he was straight out to garage - which was nice ( after all ,he is the future for these cars ) . She started well, and off we went, just around our local area really - headlights are like candles so no intention of going to far - just wanted to have another drive, and see if any change to the gearing. It would appear not, a got into top 30's mph and nothing happened - i am sure that is when it used to hit 3rd. So i am going to try to wind the cable up a little more over the weekend , ready for another try, when the weather breaks again.

If you check on the kickdown cable there should be a crimped stop on the inner cable - according to the workshop manual at idle speed the outer cable should be adjusted to remove the slack so that the stop is just touching the outer cable (threaded end) - this should be the right adjustment but if the crimped stop is missing then you're in bother.
Hope this helps

SimonR wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 13, 2023 8:08 pm

If you check on the kickdown cable there should be a crimped stop on the inner cable - according to the workshop manual at idle speed the outer cable should be adjusted to remove the slack so that the stop is just touching the outer cable (threaded end) - this should be the right adjustment but if the crimped stop is missing then you're in bother.
Hope this helps

999 times out of a thousand the crimp has been fitted in the wrong place.