Long O/D gearstick

[wild bill]

Length isn't everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Alec]

Hello Mike,

I also thought about cutting and welding, but to do a sound job it will need the joint to be prepared by grinding a good chamfer on both parts and the chances are that subsequent welding will block the central drilling for the cable making it impossible to feed it through?
While my suggestion needs a certain amount of engineering equipment and in the case that is not available then it is a simple job for a machine shop.
However, I was not aware of a longer lever on later cars and if that is the reason for the original query, an earlier gear lever would solve the problem, assuming they are interchangeable?

Alec

[tony]

Hello Tony,

" If you were fairly good with a grinder you may be able to get the diameter down to get a die nut over it but it would be a bit of a bodge."

Rather you than me, and I've regularly wielded an angle grinder for years, by the way a die nut is not designed to cut threads, merely to clean up damaged threads.

The neatest way to shorten the gear lever is to cut off to the required length, drill and tap the lever the same thread as the original end and screw in a long grub screw, drilled down the centre for the switch cable.
I must say I've not felt that the original lever is too long?

Alec

Sorry Alec,
That was just a tongue in cheek comment No way would I attempt that operation either.
Tony.

[Mike Stevens]

I think I've got an old gearlever that has been welded, but that was below the overdrive cable hole. Actually, if you think about it, you'd probably want the lengething to be there rather than higher up. Maybe?

I'm not sure I'd want to 'cut and shut' a gearlever either. I'm sure some of the spares companies will be able to find one of the correct type!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Alec]

Hello Mike,

I didn't think there was enough free length below the hole to make a significant shortening of the lever. Making a good weld on relatively small diameter bar takes a bit of skill to do it properly, however, maybe it could be sleeved and welded?

Alec

[Charles H]

The 'long' lever came in for the 2500S. It was a way of providing an less notchy lighter gearchange with the same gearbox!!!! No wonder BL didn't last!! The long stick gives a long throw and a vague change in my opinion, and I have always changed it for an earlier short one.
Indecently, I thought the early Australian built cars had the short lever. My 1970 PI certainly did! (BFX 526 reg in NSW)

[johnnydog]

I agree with your comments Charles on why the longer gearstick was introduced in 1974 - I too always understood that it was for an 'easier' gearchange; to overcome the slight baulking or as Charles says notchiness that was found in earlier gearboxes by, I presume, a bit of extra leverage!

[Mike Stevens]

Thanks for that explanation Charles. That would explain the change in gearlever length. I guess it was to overcome that slight notchyness when going into 2nd, especially when cold (and on an 'older' gearbox)! It's all part of the charm to me!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Dave B]

Indecently, I thought the early Australian built cars had the short lever. My 1970 PI certainly did! (BFX 526 reg in NSW)

You shouldn't have indecent thoughts about Triumphs, Charles.

...........sorry, couldn't resist

[torque2me]

The gear lever was made longer late in production, maybe when the 'S' came out but I've never really been sure why. Maybe when the 'J' type came in due to it's different mounting arrangement, or perhaps when/if the later seats were higher.

I don't think re-cutting the gear knob fixing will be very easy. You could probably cut a section out lower down and re-weld it, but make sure it's a good weld. You don't want that coming off when driving!

Of course, the better approach would be to find the 'right' length gear lever!

Cheers,
Mike.

Mike,

My guess would be because of drag and therefore difficulty in selecting third/fourth and especially reverse. Longer lever length produces greater force for less effort.

Do you know the length of the levers?

Kev