The Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register Forum

Hi Malcolm,

On a Mk2, the headlight wiring goes down the drivers side in the inner wing and can be extracted through one of those triangular holes just forward of the suspension turret. The relevant wires can then be cut and re-made as required. I made up a relay plate to mount around there (off one of the strut top nuts!) which then gets the relay coil power from the dip switch and feeds switched power back out to the headlamps themselves. 'All' you need then is 0V and a power feed. The former can come from anywhere around there, and the latter I took from the starter motor main feed (suggested by Jonathan on here!). You must fit fuses to protect the wiring so I fitted a 4-way fuse box on the same relay plate, using just 2, one each for the dip and main relays.

I agree about getting an H1/H4 setup. As I said, I got a pair of S/H trag H4 units from Yorkshire Triumphs so maybe talk to them? Otherwise, there are lots of new ones for sale from the specialists.

Sorry to hear about your steering issues.... If it's not one thing it's another!

Cheers,
Mike.

Thanks Mike - Colin R had explained this to me and judged that I could do the job because I appeared to understand it! Maybe I was looking a bit brighter than usual...It all makes sense. After I've set the car on fire I'll let everyone know!

Cheers

I've mounted my relay on the other side, closer to the battery. Completely rewired in heavier gauge cable. Best lights I've ever had.
Tony

You are now "orange", club member status.

tony wrote:I've mounted my relay on the other side, closer to the battery. Completely rewired in heavier gauge cable. Best lights I've ever had.

I did my 2000 that way, but when I came to do the PI and after communicating with Jonathan, I decided to try the other side, especially as the wiring to the headlights is all there too.

I was concerned about the live feed, but it was Jonathan who suggested picking it up from the starter motor.

Agreed about the light output. It is fantastic - far better than the boss's modern Volvo and my 20 year old Jag!

I'll try and remember to take a picture to post..

Cheers,
Mike.

Thanks, Alan for changing my status

Thanks Mike for the help. I like Jonathan's idea of picking up the live feed from the starter motor, keeps everything on one side.

And now to start another thread on steering issues if I can't find the answer I need from existing posts...

Cheers

I've found a couple of suitable pictures of what I did. Sorry about the dead leaves - it was probably done in the Autumn!
Cheers,
Mike.

Thanks Mike, looks very neat...

Cheers

Mike Stevens wrote:
snip

A halogen convertion will give an appreciable increase in light output, but if you also add relays, this can improve it by another 30% or so! Then of course, you can fit uprated bulbs (still legal) which helps even more. I've got night breaker plus types in mine.

Cheers,
Mike.

I have always been led to believe it to be legal to sell them but not legal for use on the highways?

Kev

rdmstewa wrote: snip
Today's problem - I've run out of spare sealed beam units and decided to take the plunge and convert to halogens. My dear mate Mr Radford has assured me that I'm competent enough to do this. So, onto the interweb to find a kit, usual suspect in Lincoln offering said kit for £114 all in. But before placing the order, I did some research and found enough advice to suggest that this might not be such a good idea - comments about quality, source country and all that. So my question is - where's the best place to buy all the bits?
Many thanks in advance!

I got a set of HiD type outer units at Enfield Pageant this year as I was having trouble locating sealed types. These units run white HiD bulb types (not a true HiD as one would need the ignitor) of one's own choice (range something like 5400k to 7200k) and have a ballast unit to even the wattage. Range of light is similar to 1977 oem but spread and light pattern coverage is better (one will only get a better light range if the headlight unit is high).

I only purchased the dip units as due to the traffic volume in England it is very unusual for me ever to use full beam and I have no doubt it is all made in China (£40).

Kev