Strut tops

Everything that keeps your car in contact with the road, and from contacting other road users.
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Umquat
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Re: Strut tops

#11 Post by Umquat » Thu May 01, 2008 4:11 pm

I've got a set of three spring compressors (think they came from machine mart, so probably clarke tools). Thick hook on either end with a locking clasp to stop them from pinging off. and a ruddy great length of threaded bar. Takes a half inch socket.

Even with these I found myself thinking "Just how much further do I need to wind this before the pressure is taken off?"

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Gavin

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Re: Strut tops

#12 Post by 70s man » Fri May 02, 2008 9:02 pm

Hi,
Yep! Dum Dum is good stuff for sealing the strut tops between the body. I've had my struts out and rebuilt them. You need to take out a good handful of dum dum and roll it into a thin sausage shape and then lay it in a complete circle around the strut top where the old stuff was. After you've offered the struts back into the body and start doing the 3 nuts up in the engine bay, you'll probably notice the excess oozing out, as its "pinched". Try e bay for the dum dum. Good luck.
Paul
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mikeyb
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Re: Strut tops

#13 Post by mikeyb » Sun May 04, 2008 8:37 pm

Both sides are now done, NS went a lot smoother after I bought some decent draper compressors, no sticktion YAY!

I didn't put any dum dum around the top in the end I just left what was there alone.

Mike

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Re: Strut tops

#14 Post by Sloppy 2000 » Wed Nov 07, 2018 11:20 pm

Reigniting an old thread here.

I have had to replace a shock which leaked an amazing amount of oil in to the strut in a very short time. This isn't a problem and this is in hand but when coming to the top mount it makes sense whilst I am there to renew bits there. I am going to reuse the top mount itself. I have heard that retros are not good and CW mentions their failings on his site. But the bearing parts; I wonder if anyone had any advice on.

Is there any sort of particular grease that should be used in the top mount bearing, i.e. the sleeve and insert. Do the sleeves usually need replacing as a matter of course, just bearing (insert) or both. I have some new thrust washers coming. Do the top and bottom washers need replacing too?

Thanks Jeff
Triumph 2000 estate mk1 1968

johnnydog
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Re: Strut tops

#15 Post by johnnydog » Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:38 pm

Hi Jeff,
As long as the sealant around the strut top is making a good water tight seal, no water should get to the bearing. I would just use a good quality general purpose grease such as the old Castrol LM grade. Don't use copperslip as it isn't intended as a lubricant, but an antiseize compound.
Make sure you fit the washers with the tabs, the correct way round - one side has a plastic coating which from memory should be refiitted with the plastic side upper / lower most.
Officially, the spring should be refitted in the correct orientation, ie with the lower coil end facing inboard (from memory?) which prevents the curvature of the spring fouling the inner susp turret under load. If you are reusing the original rubbers, then the previous indents in the rubber from the spring should aid reassembly as they came off the car (assuming they were correct when removed!).
Lastly don't forget to locate the thin shim(s) from behind the lower front bolt when the strut is removed - they often get forgotten and fall into the dirt and are not replaced on reassembly. They officially affect the steering geometry if not fitted, although a lot of cars now probably now havent got them as they are easily overlooked.
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1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red

johnnydog
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Re: Strut tops

#16 Post by johnnydog » Thu Nov 08, 2018 6:27 pm

mikeyb wrote:
Thu May 01, 2008 9:37 am
Your not kidding, the sykes pickavant compressors i used also slipped when i was trying to compress them back up
I usually put a thin piece of strong rubber under each hook. This helps to prevent the hooks from slipping under tension, and it also helps to protect the paint finish on new springs, especially on modern vehicles, which if damaged can cause rusting. Some spring compressors have a plastic coating on the hooks but invariably this cracks with use and the use of a rubber strip under the hook helps.
Register Member no. 1596

1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red

Clifford Pope
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Re: Strut tops

#17 Post by Clifford Pope » Sat Nov 10, 2018 9:56 am

I've just done this job on my Volvo - much bigger springs than the Triumph, but interestingly, my compressors have very hooky hooks and I didn't feel the least apprehension that they could slip off. I can't remember where I got them. The hooks have so much overhang inside that it's actually quite difficult fitting them in between the coils - I had to jiggle them in where the gap was a bit wider and then wind them round to the required spot.

It's a long time since I've done springs on the Triumph - don't they have machined end-coils shaped so that the springs sit straight without any sideways bias, like valve springs? I've heard it said that the reason modern cars break springs so often is because they aren't shaped at the ends anymore, but just lengths cut out of a much longer continuous spring?

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Alec
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Re: Strut tops

#18 Post by Alec » Sat Nov 10, 2018 4:09 pm

Hello Cliff,

yes you are right, the Triumph springs are flat ended, as were most of that era. Modern springs often do not hav ethis feature but teh spring pans are shaped to accomodate this feature.

Alec
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