Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

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Stevey
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Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#1 Post by Stevey » Tue May 02, 2023 5:18 pm

Hello all,
My name is Steve and I'm a very new member with a 2500S that has seized, rear brakes and would very much appreciate some words of wisdom.
I'm trying to hook up the handbrake spring on the N/S at present. I have all new springs however I think the handbrake springs may be a little shorter than necessary as, try as I might, I can not stretch the spring enough to fit in to the hole I think it should. The old springs have had the ends 'fettled' I think in order to extend them a little.

[flickr=]https://www.flickr.com/photos/198230328 ... o4tjP38Ab9[/flickr]
[flickr=]https://www.flickr.com/photos/198230328 ... /fu3570610[/flickr]

I'm currently trying to get spring "B" in to hole "D" but as can be seen from the witness marks, many bad words have been said in the process. Can anybody tell me if I'm using the correct spring and whether this is the correct hole please?
I'm assuming some sort of blood sacrifice at midnight would also help however this is after my bedtime :roll:
Thank you for reading.

Steve
'77 2500 S Auto
'12 Triumph Thunderbird Storm

johnnydog
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Re: Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#2 Post by johnnydog » Tue May 02, 2023 7:11 pm

For some reason, I can't open your second photo. The first with the two springs shown on it opens up OK.
Could you try attaching the second photo again to show the holes B and D you are referring to?
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1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red

Stevey
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Re: Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#3 Post by Stevey » Wed May 03, 2023 8:02 am

Hello Johnnydog,
apologies - image now attached.
shoes.jpg
Thanks.

Steve
'77 2500 S Auto
'12 Triumph Thunderbird Storm

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Re: Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#4 Post by johnnydog » Wed May 03, 2023 7:30 pm

Hi Steve,
Yes, it is the correct hole.
There is a bit of a knack to it! I have known some remove the drive shaft (which is a relatively quick job) to assist access to reassemble the rear brakes, but that is a bit OTT! The shoes are 'trailing', so make sure they are fitted correctly relative to the wheel rotation.
I assume you have ensured the handbrake operating lever (that goes from the handbrake cable through the back plate) is nice and free and spins easily, as they do get stiff / seize up. You also need to ensure the handbrake ratchet self adjusters are fully released as they can move during assembly which expands the brake shoes slightly. It is easy to lift the upper part of the ratchet whilst in situ to release them again.
It is a lot easier to assemble the shoes, handbrake lever and lower springs off the car. It should be clear at this point which holes the springs locate in. This way you can flex the angle of the shoes which makes locating the lower springs a lot easier. The spring in your first photo runs along the handbrake lever on the outboard side of the shoe, and the square end hooks round the angled peg on the lever before locating the rounder hook into the shoe. You need to ensure the two rounded end of the handbrake operating lever are correctly located in the cut outs in the shoe and the lug is located in cut out of the large ratchet. The large curly end of the other lower spring is located on the outboard side of the shoe and the large hook goes through the shoe and sits by the larger ratchet of the self adjusters.
Once they are assembled off the car, you can offer them up to the car, feeding the end of the handbrake lever through the back plate, then partially spread the shoes round the hub into position. I then position the top of each shoe on the outside of the fixed shoe guide, which makes it easier to attach the top spring. Then spread the top shoes and locate them round the guide. Then put the retaining pins, springs and caps on. If you use pliers be careful that the caps don't ping off and get lost forever! I use a pair of long nose locking pliers but there are other ways such as using a small socket over the cap etc.
Make sure the self adjusting ratchet is still fully released, centralise the shoes by eye, and the drum should go on easily. If it doesn't, then check for anything not located correctly. Connect the handbrake, and if all's OK, you will hear the self adjusting mechanism click up when you operate the footbrake.
Easy...! :lol:
Register Member no. 1596

1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red

Stevey
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Re: Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#5 Post by Stevey » Thu May 04, 2023 8:40 am

Hi Johnnydog,
first off, thank you for your time in responding with such a detailed and welcome answer.
Assembling off the car and then fitting is not only sneaky but brilliant! It's very easy to get bogged down with trying to reach the same ends in the same way so I probably need to stop now and then, have a biscuit and try to think of different ways to do things.
All outstanding parts should be arriving shortly so this will be the weekend's endeavour and then I may be able to drive my new car for the first time :D
The handbrake levers have been cleaned and a tiny amount of copper grease applied to keep them honest so I'm hoping for a reasonable handbrake at the end. I'll post a follow up for completeness so thanks again.

Steve
'77 2500 S Auto
'12 Triumph Thunderbird Storm

wild bill
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Re: Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#6 Post by wild bill » Thu May 04, 2023 10:51 am

As usual John, a perfectly easily explained solution, and we now have a very grateful and informed new owner!!
Please keep up the good work, you are an absolute legend and walking(when the old knees allow!!) encyclopaedia on all things Triumph.
Cheers John,
Take care!
Bill.

Stevey,
Wellcome to the world of the Big Six!
Bill Young
1967 MK1 2000 MSS8E
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Re: Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#7 Post by johnnydog » Thu May 04, 2023 11:11 am

Thanks Bill!
I am on another forum relative to my other (half) classic Vauxhall Omega 3.2 Elite. The problem on that site is there are certain people that give belittling and condescending replies to owners asking genuine questions. Everyone has different levels of knowledge and abilities, so why should anyone be basically be treated with contempt for simply asking how to approach a problem? It doesn't encourage new owners or members to join a club / forum either. I've got some useful info from it relative to maintenance guides, but the attitude of some members on it leaves a lot to be desired.
So If I can help with any matter I will - maybe I give too long winded replies sometimes but it's pointless only half explaining a issue or job, or as I often read on this other site 'read the manual' or abrupt brief comments like 'do xyz and report back'.
Enjoy your 2500S Stevey - they are rapidly becoming one of the more sought after models of the range!
Register Member no. 1596

1967 Mk1 2000 in Gunmetal Grey
1969 Mk1 2000 in Royal Blue
1970 Mk2 2000 in Valencia Blue
1972 Mk2 2.5 PI in Triumph White
1973 Mk2 2.5 PI in Sienna Brown
1976 Mk2 2500S in Carmine Red

Stevey
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Re: Rebuilding rear Mk2 brakes

#8 Post by Stevey » Mon May 08, 2023 9:42 am

Just to follow up progress, the brakes went back together in what I can only call a bit of an anti-climax - which is a good thing! I did as John said and assembled off car then wrapped the contraption around the hub and that was it - no swearing... apart from when I knelt on a brake pad steady.
Brakes bled and a good solid pedal meant that a quick shakedown was imminent.
Didn't make it past the end of the drive as the smell of petrol meant something was up. It appears that the stuck float valve that I fixed and un-fixed itself so Basil (the car is British racing green) was tucked up until replacements arrive.
Thanks again as well as for the welcome, another thing to tick off the list and I'll share this method with my Stag owning neighbour.

Steve
'77 2500 S Auto
'12 Triumph Thunderbird Storm

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