The Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register Forum

I have recently refurbished the brakes on my mk2 2500 with new rear wheel cylinders, nos calipers, nos BL brake discs, nos servo & master cylinder, new rear shoes and front pads, also stainless braided flexi hoses all round, but I am less than impressed with the travel on the pedal before the brakes bite. There is no air in the system as far as I can tell, as the pedal doesn't rise when 'pumped'. The rear brakes are adjusted correctly, the handbrake is spot on.
My theory is the servo pushrod is incorrectly adjusted in relation to the master cylinder, but this is something I've never had to do before, so has anyone any hints or tips before I start to experiment?

There are different master cylinder /servo push rod lengths. Compare with original.


Alan Chatterton
Chairman
Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Dave,

are you sure the rear brakes are correctly adjusted, as the automatic adjusters are notoriously ineffective?

Alec

Alec wrote:Hello Dave,

are you sure the rear brakes are correctly adjusted, as the automatic adjusters are notoriously ineffective?

Alec

Absolutely, Alec. I never rely on the auto-adjust, I always do mine manually by disconnecting the handbrake cable, then taking the drum on & off, moving the shoes out a click at a time til the drum just fits snugly over them. A bit of a faff, but it brings the right result!

I have always found the auto adjusters are ok if set correctly. Dave have you given the brakes enough time/miles to bed in?
I have never adjusted the pushrod length, my pi needs it I think ( I have Stag m/c and servo) but Andy Thompson advised VERY small adjustments at a time, he had done it and said it's very easy to end up with brakes full on without touching the pedal.

Colin

CAR wrote:Dave have you given the brakes enough time/miles to bed in

Not really, Colin as there is no MOT on the car at the mo, but the pedal isn't right, its going about 3/4 way down.

Blimey Dave I thought you were talking a small amount, that's a bit more than I was thinking and certainly not what I have on the pi. That just has maybe 10mm more travel than the estate.

Colin

just rebuilt the rear bushes and hubs , fitting the mk2 with new shoes revealed a PO had screwed the cable tight to get a handbrake which holds the shoes open and gives lost pedal travel, the handbrake expanding levers which are often seized were quite free , but on refitting the drums and operate the pedal to expand the adjuster ratchet required the cable lengthening by 25mm to make a neat pin fit, the result is a better pedal and excellent handbrake

this ratchet and bar arrangement was used by a number of manufactures the normal problem is the pivot gets seized and having the HB cable open shoes is a common fault across so many cars

pete

When working on the rear brakes, it is important to disconnect the handbrake cable before getting the auto-adjusters to 'click-up'. Then re-attach the handbrake cable, adjusting as necessary to give a good handbrake.

It's always worked well for me in the past!

Cheers,
Mike.

yes the old shoes on mine were not bad but some po had mis assembled the springs which did not return the shoes well and the handbrake crank was opening the shoes a lot but not seized at its pivot.
disconnecting the cable , then apply the pedal to set the adjusters gave a 1"gap between lever and fork.
so now cable readjusted to suit the lever yoke pin hole , a big improvement over how she was .

Pete