1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

How do you improve the performance of your beastie?
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Mary
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1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#1 Post by Mary » Fri Feb 19, 2016 4:01 pm

Hi There Everybody,

I am looking for a fair amount of advice as I try to finally to do some serious work on my 2000 after 15 years of ownership. The help you have given me in the past has been well appreciated and applied. I apologize in advance as there is quite a lot on my mind. So off I go:

1: The engine is VERY tired so I am having my spare 1969 GT6+ engine rebuilt. Are there any installation issues that I might encounter? Are the mounts the same? Are there clearance issues? Is this ill-advised? The engine that I am removing is not the original so no great loss to originality (it is an early Mk1 GT6 motor installed by a previous owner who I run into at shows. He still misses the car greatly but he should never have purchased tools. Every time I need to fix something it is apparent that he was quite creative. Nice guy though).

2. The engine is being uprated a bit with roller rockers, a mild cam upgrade, and head work so the car can actually go up hills. Living in Southern California this is imperative as to go anywhere you have to climb pretty big hills. The car currently has headers. These will not fit on the new engine. As fitted right now they knock on the frame on idle. Have any of you done this swap and installed headers? How do you avoid the knock? More importantly, who can I get decent headers from? GT6 suppliers are pretty rare here and I want headers that work so I don't mind spending an extra bit of cash here.

3. I am currently running Stromberg CD175 carbs on a manifold that my mechanic has never seen before. I would like to put these on the new engine as they are recently rebuilt and work great. We are pretty sure the manifold won't fit. Is there a manifold that will fit the new motor to allow me to use my current carbs? If not, I will have to go with the GoodParts triple carb set-up I guess but I am trying to save money on this bit. I want to put fuel injection on the car in the next 2 years and don't want to spend big money twice if I can help it. I could really do it now I suppose but have chosen 2 weeks in Maui instead. What can I say? :)

4. Flywheel? I gave my flywheel away because my friend was desperate. Now I don't have one. Is there a lightweight aluminum or steel one available anywhere that is good quality?

5. I am planning an alternator conversion. Is there anything I have to watch out for? I really don't want catch on fire. I would also like to upgrade my headlights. Any thoughts? And I am definitely in need of music. My car does not have an accessory position on the ignition so you can't listen to music without the whole car being on. Makes going to the drive-in movies difficult as you have to listen through your stereo now which makes the battery goes a bit flat. Is this normal for this model? If it is, can the ignition switch be changed easily without causing problems?

6. Is is possible to add power steering to my car? It is an early 1966 so I think not but it would be great if someone has any ideas or suggestions.

7. My suspension is rebuilt but the car still has a lot of understeer. Are anti-sway bars available? I haven't seen any but am hopeful there is a solution. What about a strut bar? Anything would help as I really like the twisty roads. I don't expect it to handle like my TR250 but it would be nice to go a bit faster without scaring myself to death. I am planning a 3500 mile road trip this summer with some of my friends who will all be more nimble and it would be nice to not be left behind. Also, after the summer I plan on delivering the car to my niece at school so I would like the handling to be predictable for her. Unfortunately, the speed gene runs true in her so safely is imperative.

I am sure I will have more questions so thanks in advance. And any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as well. It take a village to keep these cars going.

Hello to you Andy Roberts and hope to see you on these shores soon.

Cheers!

-Mary

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Re: 1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#2 Post by Dazzer » Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:26 pm

Hi

If the GT6 engine you have is an early narrow head then its a great engine for getting loads more torque and power out of. I use a 65 2000 for rallying and the 175 strombergs are a great carb to use. You need an early 2000 manifold which you need to open up and affix the four stud carbs to just two of the studs. A couple of short ram pipes work well also. But the front carb ram pipe will be very close to the front strut. You can cant the engine over using spacers on the mounts which incidently should also be changed for hd versions. I can probably find links to most of these mods which have been posted on various forums. Mine has a 10.75.1 comp ratio with larger centre head studs to stop the head gasket blowing. Headers available from http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW3496 the 2 150BHP PI CAM is great with this set up. Sway bar yes straight off a mk2 with the tie bars cross member etc. Not common in the US i would guess but Chris Witor also good for these parts as well. Hope these few examples help. Ive posted bits on here before but heres my MK1 with the mods as above. https://youtu.be/qB8P6ihvyRg You may need to paste this link into your browser.

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1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#3 Post by Polly » Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:17 pm

I don't have a radio in my Mk1, so don't need the "accessory" position, but doesn't the switch turn backwards to give this function?? Or am I thinking about something else entirely?


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Re: 1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#4 Post by Alec » Tue Feb 23, 2016 9:42 am

Hello Mary,

" My suspension is rebuilt but the car still has a lot of understeer. Are anti-sway bars available? I haven't seen any but am hopeful there is a solution. What about a strut bar? Anything would help as I really like the twisty roads. I don't expect it to handle like my TR250"

Some later models of the 2000 range had what you call an anti sway bar (anti roll bar over here) which can be fitted with the appropriate cross member, links and drag struts (Reaction struts) but that will increase your understeer. The thing to check is your camber angle on the front, this is adjusted by shims which go between the spring strut and the track control arm mounting. Less positive will decrease understeer. You should be able to match the handling of your TR250 with stiffer and slightly lowering springs and decent dampers. It has a very stiff body which means the suspension works better than the chassis of the TR250. Also pump up the tyres, I normally run about 34lbs all round.

Alec
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Mary
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Re: 1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#5 Post by Mary » Wed Mar 02, 2016 11:54 pm

Hi Guys!

Thanks for all of the input. I must apologize for the delayed response. When I arrived at work the morning of my post I was greeted with the news that I am to revive an old project which I am to work on secretly while still keeping my other projects ongoing. Consequently, I am saying farewell to daylight and weekends!

Dazzer: The engine that I am using is KD78607E (69 GT6+ over here) so I think that your engine suggestions won't work but please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for the heads-up on the cam and headers. Any lightened flywheel leads? I will definitely check out your suspension suggestions. Would rear sway bars help the cause as well? I will check out the YouTube link when I am not at work.

Polly: You are right on in that the switch should turn back for an accessary position. Since mine doesn't and I have no cars to use for comparison I thought I would ask if this was normal. I know that it is somewhat useless to have a radio in a Triumph as they can be quite noisy inside, but I really need music sometimes. I will figure a work-around here. Shouldn't be too difficult I would think. Thanks!

Alec: Thanks for the suspension tutorial. Installing a sway bar which could potentially cause increased under-steer is something that we have discussed. Maybe I will leave the suspension as is (except for re-aligning just in case it is off). The car is going to my niece this winter- I will just tell(beg) her to cruise and not thrash. After that I will just think good thoughts. Good idea on the tire pressure. I am frequently lax on that and bet they are slightly low most of the time (I am running 14inch Mini-lites with a slightly lower profile tire).

Again, thanks for all of the help!

Mary

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Re: 1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#6 Post by tr250 » Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:24 pm

Hi Mary,

I'm also States Side and have a 2000.

I didn't see it mentioned specifically, but your inlet manifold on a GT6+ head won't work. You'll either have to swap heads over to the mk1 head, come up with a 2000 mk2 inlet manifold or use a gt6 manifold & have it machined to counter the 7 degree slant that the engine has.

I had a manifold, but it went back to Oregon.

I now have a 2500 inlet manifold & I'm installing a TR6 engine. Oh speaking of swapping parts. You'll also need to swap the front & rear (i think rear) engine plates which will give you that slant.

Regards,

Todd
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Re: 1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#7 Post by tr250 » Fri Nov 25, 2016 5:31 pm

Alec wrote:Hello Mary,

" My suspension is rebuilt but the car still has a lot of understeer. Are anti-sway bars available? I haven't seen any but am hopeful there is a solution. What about a strut bar? Anything would help as I really like the twisty roads. I don't expect it to handle like my TR250"

Some later models of the 2000 range had what you call an anti sway bar (anti roll bar over here) which can be fitted with the appropriate cross member, links and drag struts (Reaction struts) but that will increase your understeer. The thing to check is your camber angle on the front, this is adjusted by shims which go between the spring strut and the track control arm mounting. Less positive will decrease understeer. You should be able to match the handling of your TR250 with stiffer and slightly lowering springs and decent dampers. It has a very stiff body which means the suspension works better than the chassis of the TR250. Also pump up the tyres, I normally run about 34lbs all round.

Alec
Hi Alec, do you know if Stag bits can be used to fit a anti roll bar to a mk1 2000? I think i can get my hands on the entire mess for cheap.

Regards,

Todd
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Re: 1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#8 Post by Alec » Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:20 am

Hello Todd,

sorry but I can't give a definite answer as I don't know. I would guess that it would work but that's all it is a, guess. If you have good fabrication facilities I would say that it could be made to work if it's not a bolt on option?

Alec
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Re: 1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#9 Post by Mike Stevens » Mon Nov 28, 2016 10:43 pm

The fitting at each end is the same (onto the drag struts) but the centre fixings are different in the Stag as they bolt to the body rather than the engine cross member.

However, it may fit but as I am away from home at the present I can't check in the parts books!

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1966 Mk1 2000 Modifications

#10 Post by Alan Chatterton » Mon Nov 28, 2016 11:47 pm

Stag item does fit, (I have one on mine) but as Mike says, the stag one mounts to the body, but uses the holes in the chassis rails that a 2000 engine crossmember fits to, so you can't.
You need an anti roll bar engine crossmember for a 2000.
But, the bar and the drop links and the drag struts off a Stag you can use.


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