Heater refurb

Other technical Issues with the Triumph 2000 range
Post Reply
Message
Author
torque2me
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts:310
Joined:Thu Aug 13, 2009 12:52 pm
Location:Hatfield
Heater refurb

#1 Post by torque2me » Fri Nov 24, 2023 4:54 pm

Hi Groupies,

Time for a looksee at the heater system.

Vehicle is a 1977 2500s.

Whilst I'll start with the valve not being in the correct position i.e. open to allow hot water into the matrix, I have a funny feeling that will be blocked. Also the motor sounds like it can't be bothered to get out of bed.

Has anyone taken a unit apart? Rimmers sells replacement units (made by Claytons) but is much wonga. They also sell the matrix and motor as separate entities so I thought I would go that route.

I believe the TR6 unit is different externally (maybe not internally).
Kev

iani
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts:134
Joined:Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:30 pm

Re: Heater refurb

#2 Post by iani » Fri Nov 24, 2023 6:45 pm

I had no heat from the units in my Mk1 Estate or Mk1 GT6, in both cases I was able to restore service by flushing the matrix through. It doesn't seem to take much for these units to block up, well worth trying to flush, both ways if possible, and see if that restores service. The Mk2 heater valve could be a disconnected control cable, a weakened PVC sleeve on the control cable allowing it to move, preventing the valve from being operated or the valve itself being stiff, you can try moving it by hand.

Ian
1966 2000 Mk1 Estate - Cherry Red (2.5 PI conversion)
1968 Mk1 GT6 - Wedgewood, 2.5l Triple DCOEs
1973 2.5 PI Saloon - Honeysuckle

Charles H
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts:1646
Joined:Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:38 pm
Location:Folkestone

Re: Heater refurb

#3 Post by Charles H » Mon Nov 27, 2023 9:03 am

The Mk2 heater is usually a pretty good unit that provides plenty of heat. The usual suspect is the control valve on the side of the unit in the drivers footwell as mentioned before. Make sure it is in the fully open position and flush both ways using the stubs that go through the bulkhead as mentioned. Once the two rubber pipes are disconnected, it is pretty simple to push a garden hose on either end in turn.
Charles Harrison
Register member 3095
Folkestone
Cherry Red Mk1 2000 Rally Car
Mallard Blue 2.5PI
Sapphire Blue GT6 Mk3
Vermillion Red Spitfire 1500
Pimento Red TR6
Inky Blue VW Passat B5.5
Arctic Blue Jaguar XJ40
Silver Range Rover Vogue SE

sprint95m
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts:141
Joined:Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:27 pm
Location:Caithness, Scotland

Re: Heater refurb

#4 Post by sprint95m » Sat Dec 02, 2023 12:21 am

Charles H wrote:
Mon Nov 27, 2023 9:03 am
The Mk2 heater is usually a pretty good unit that provides plenty of heat. The usual suspect is the control valve on the side of the unit in the drivers footwell as mentioned before. Make sure it is in the fully open position and flush both ways using the stubs that go through the bulkhead as mentioned. Once the two rubber pipes are disconnected, it is pretty simple to push a garden hose on either end in turn.
Yes, I concur, the mark two heater does provide good heat, certainly by the standards of it's era.
However a modern replacement matrix could still be worth considering...?
One striking thing is how compact the heater matrix has become in new cars.

I looked at this for a Dolomite Sprint(whose heater is poor compared to a 2000 mark 2) and fitted a VW Transporter matrix.
The VW design has much bigger tubes and inside each is what resembles an archimedes screw, the function of which is clearly to ensure
there is constantly hot coolant in contact with the tube wall. (I guess this is standard nowadays?)
It is possible to improve a Dolomite 1850 or Sprint heater's performance by employing an 88 degree C thermostat and taking the heater supply
from the cylinder head transfer housing (instead of the inlet manifold).
I am hoping that the VW matrix will offer a further improvement when I return my Sprint to the road (next year).


The potential problem with back flushing a heater matrix is that this only removes soft sediment....
the stuff that has set harder the concrete is staying put for sure.


thanks
Ian
Owner of a 1979 Dolomite Sprint (EFI),
previously ran for nine years a Dolomite (1850), a 2500S (for 4 years), a Dolomite 1500HL (for a few months),
a Dolomite Sprint (for 10 years) and a second 2500S (for 5 years until 2007).

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests