Bodywork Corrosion

Other technical Issues with the Triumph 2000 range
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Mike Stevens
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Re: Bodywork Corrosion

#21 Post by Mike Stevens » Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:34 pm

While using original panels to effect a good repair, it should be remembered that a repair is not the same as when originally built. Panels would have been fitted in a specific order and if you are trying to repair an inner panel, than a lot of outer work has to be removed to get to it. The front of sills is a good example as (ideally) the front wing has to come off to get in there. These days that is a no-no as wings are not really now economically viable, so we cut off the bottom of the wing and use a repair panel.

Original panels are what they say, original and will eventually no longer be available. Using a good quality repair panel, fitted correctly (and properly protected while doing so) is an equally good method and the one that I have taken. I think the only OEM panel I've ever used was a front valance which were pretty plentiful 20 or so years ago. (On the 2000 that is, Stags are different as more OEM parts are available.)

Sill repair is a good example of the above.

The inner (carpet) bit is often OK, but can be repaired with flat sheet steel, cut and welded in with either a butt or joddled joint. I tend to use the latter as a butt joint is all too easy to blow a hole in, (for me anyway!). The floor flanges can also be repaired and plug/seam welded back on.

Middle sill. This can't be seen so a simple folded panel overlapped/seam welded to the remains of the original and then 'stepped' back to meet the repaired inner. The jacking studs and reinforcing brackets can be a bit fiddly to align but well worth it and should be done.

Outer. This will have been cut off at the bend just below the door (to give access inside). I use a low cost cover sill with extension, but I cut the extension off to leave a small step. This is then pushed up underneath the remains of the original at the top and plugwelded through the flange back onto the repaired middle.

Bit under the front wing. Having cut the wing to get in there, again it can't be seen, so a good way is to make these bits up, one for the middle and another for the outer. This will then tie it all together and make a strong structure. Don't forget the drain hole here and lots of paint to protect the metal from the water draining down from above!

Apart from the outer sill, wing back lower repair and perhaps inner sill, all these are custom hand made parts and will produce a strength equally as good as original. Of course, my time is free so making panels does not increase the cost which may not be the case when paying someone else to do it.

Cheers,
Mike.
(South Oxfordshire)
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Alan Chatterton
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Re: Bodywork Corrosion

#22 Post by Alan Chatterton » Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:18 pm

englishbull wrote:
Alan Chatterton wrote:Yes I know Lee........ but if you just want to put a car back on the road and enjoy it, it can be done for much less without compromising the structure of the car.

Look at how Colin had his sills done, or mine........ do you consider these to be bodges? Both these cost much less than 1500.

My comment about concours cars was meant to mean, that this gentlemen is obviously not interesting in building a show car, he wants to return a family treasure to the road....... telling him his sills needed doing at a cost of 1500 will just put him off, he almost considered getting rid of the car after that!

Concours cars, to me, are pointless......... as in, I just don't see the point. Why spend stupid amounts of money to get them just as they were from new (but far better) just to clean them and then try and win a tin cup worth about £15? ........... to me, pointless.

Bit pointless having a concourse event at the Nationals then?

Plus I find this statement rather hypocritical, as I remember years ago (when you hosted the first ever National I attended,the one before your last one) that you came over to me and asked if I was going to put my Carmine MK2 2000 into the Concourse?. I said that I wasn't bothered but you said "that I should as it was a nice car (which it was,as it was on the Register Stand at the NEC with Roy Presidees old car) and cars needed to be entered into the judging,as the Register needs these kind of things to stand a chance of surviving........ :shock:


Plus I didn't read that Alan didn't want to show his car........... :oops:

Re Colins sills..................his were done correctly using Stanpart full sills...............so definately not bodged and I know Colin paid approximately what I have qouted!.

Ideally if you intend to use one of our cars on a daily basis then IMO and others...........the car needs to be built better than a concourse one as it will be used in all weathers and if not done correctly and bodily modified it will soon detoriate.......... :?
My new MK1 PI is currently undergoing sill surgery and further welding and will be done correctly,as this is intended to be used in all weathers but the work that is being done will mean that the car will be on the road for many more years.

My mate bought an estate that is used on a daily basis and the car was in very nice condition on the outside but it needed some sill work and welding .....................everthing is not what it appears on the tin and this is what I was trying to portray in my first thread.

I agree, it IS pointless having concours at the Nationals. we get, what, 15 cars enter tops..... out of our membership (people, not cars, so it could be worse!) .. that's 2% turnout...... what a waste of time. I petitioned to get rid of concours for many years and got shouted down. It is obvious this is not what the membership of the club wants.
As for trying to persuade you to put your car in the concours.......... I was organising an event to Register directions, and I wanted more cars in the concours otherwise it would look pretty stupid with an empty field!!
My personal opinion is one thing, when I was a Director of the club, my main focus was on what is best for the club.......... no I don't have to do that anymore, so you gets what I thinks!!

Repair in this case seems a sensible solution, not many owners can face spending the 1500 per side you and Colin have...... even I didn't go that far....... mind you, still got a £8000 bill, and how many people would seriously do that? ((well, apart from me and Mike Weaver it seems!!)

At the end of my build, my bill is going to be approx £25k. Mike Weavers will probably be over that, but he isn't including for the paint bill as he took legal action and got the money back........ Both cars when finished will be worth, what?........ a quarter of that bill. QED. Who would do it? Not many.
So, the sensible solution is to repair to structurally sound, not necessarily to satisfy the concours judge....... unless you are building a car specifically to win tin cups........

Anyway, it looks ok to me....... I reckon you could get away with having the bottom U channel of the sills repaired, and any minor repairs to the inners. A decent bodyshop should do that for about £250 per side.... but more if the floor needs doing.
Alan Chatterton

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englishbull
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Re: Bodywork Corrosion

#23 Post by englishbull » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:20 pm

Alan....................

it is £1500 total not per side and that included the sills, paint,labour and repairs to front arches..........
     Lee Godfrey     Club Member 7075      

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Alan Chatterton
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Re: Bodywork Corrosion

#24 Post by Alan Chatterton » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:51 pm

Even so.......... pointless and unnecessary unless you are building a car to impress the judges, which he isn't.
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owen1183
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Re: Bodywork Corrosion

#25 Post by owen1183 » Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:52 am

Alan Chatterton wrote:Even so.......... pointless and unnecessary unless you are building a car to impress the judges, which he isn't.
Not sure i'd go as far as to say pointless..... I do see both sides of the opinion on this

If you just want to get the car back on the road at minimal outlay then thats great! another 2000 back on the road.

Mine however had new sills (middles & outers) as well as 3 new door skins arches sorted out and front valance repaired for about £1800

The work was so good, I had to enter concours at the stafford show last year and came third. I was over the moon as this was not why I paid to have the work done.

The car I inherited from my grandad, so was more than happy to spend that money getting the car on the road looking near perfect but mainly for nostalgic reasons.

Both options are good options and are down to what you want to use the car for. either way is great to see another 2000 being brought back to the roads
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Re: Bodywork Corrosion

#26 Post by englishbull » Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:40 pm

owen1183 wrote:
Alan Chatterton wrote:Even so.......... pointless and unnecessary unless you are building a car to impress the judges, which he isn't.
Not sure i'd go as far as to say pointless..... I do see both sides of the opinion on this

If you just want to get the car back on the road at minimal outlay then thats great! another 2000 back on the road.

Mine however had new sills (middles & outers) as well as 3 new door skins arches sorted out and front valance repaired for about £1800

The work was so good, I had to enter concours at the stafford show last year and came third. I was over the moon as this was not why I paid to have the work done.

The car I inherited from my grandad, so was more than happy to spend that money getting the car on the road looking near perfect but mainly for nostalgic reasons.

Both options are good options and are down to what you want to use the car for. either way is great to see another 2000 being brought back to the roads

Well said Owen

and your car is lovely mate and well deserves to be entered and win prizes but like you say I know thisn't about this as it is more sentimental reasons.
     Lee Godfrey     Club Member 7075      

1960 948 Herald Coupe in Alpine Mauve
1962 1600 Vitesse Convertible in White
1961 Standard Vanguard estate

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